Thread: damn rusty exhaust bolts!

Eh... since I'm already 2 for 2 for snapping bolts and drilling them out I made an appointment. Found a shop that will do it right and they will charge 40 to 50 dollars... since that's all they are charging ill just let them handle it... after breaking two bolts back to back for exhaust u start to lack confidence... lol

Originally Posted by BillBoost37

The lower bolts are more prone to rust. The upper bolts from rear manifold to DP are stout. They typically don't snap.

The tools I use are a 2" extension, ball pivot snap on deep socket and a 3/8" ratchet with a long handle. Yes..now a days I use air..but for the longest time..I simply crawled under with the listed tools. I think I've broken only one stud over the years on teh manifold to DP connection. And if you are doing headers..then it doesn't matter if they break.

Want a tip.. read my tip earlier. Warm the car up, put it on stands and loosen any bolts you think you don't want to snap.

Not second guessing you, but from looking at the top end ones they look pretty rusted. Also I used a propane torch directly on the nut (not bolt) and still had them snap.. guess exhaust work is not my specialty.

Not to go to off course, but the one guy i got an estimate of 100 to 150 to put it on was positive it would throw a check engine light... its a downpipe with high flow cat.. anyone have issues with that? Personally I think he was trying to drive the price up and sell me his ****..

Originally Posted by shart

its a downpipe with high flow cat.. anyone have issues with that? Personally I think he was trying to drive the price up and sell me his ****..

You should research your mods a little bit more thoroughly..........it will more than likely throw a code. The mechanic was right.

Originally Posted by BillBoost37

Yeah..most likely a high flow cat is gonna set a check engine light in a car newer than 99.

FWIW the two lower rear (catback) bolts almost always snap. They get a lot more weather under the car than the manifold to dp bolts. No money out of my pocket, was trying to bolster your confidence for future work.

Appreciate it Bill... well if it does throw a code I guess ill have to remove them and put the stock one every year come inspection time... or looks like I could use the o2 simulator... guess we will have to wait and see.

Originally Posted by copgtp

You should research your mods a little bit more thoroughly..........it will more than likely throw a code. The mechanic was right.

Guess u learn something new everyday. Thanks.

Originally Posted by BillBoost37

Keep asking questions and one of us will mention how you can have the code turned off in your pcm to keep from having the issue.

Haha even better... would u be so kind as to enlighten me?

Originally Posted by BillBoost37

I.....just did though. Have your pcm programmed to have the code put to a state that doesn't set off the light.

Ah gotcha.. misread that.

Finally got it put on this morning for 42.50. Gotta love the Amish. No engine light yet... I know it can take some time for it to show and register for some things... hopefully it stays off.