Thread: Oil pan replacment

Results 1 to 11 of 11
  1. #1 Oil pan replacment 
    GTP Level Member chevyy1212's Avatar
    Join Date
    Oct 2008
    Location
    IL
    Posts
    974
    Thanks (Received)
    0
    Likes (Received)
    0
    Dislikes (Received)
    0
    Is it as straight forward as Im hoping just unbolt new gasket and done or is it going to be 10874834738 x's harder than it has to be. A link if theres a writup would be cool but more or less just hopin for input.
    1998 GS with Open cone, PLOG, ZZP Catless DP, tune & Intense MPS 3.6. Pulls good enough to make the woman smack me and call me a D!*k.
    Reply With Quote  
     

  2. #2 Re: Oil pan replacment 
    Turbo is the way to go. Fivefingerdeathpunch's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2009
    Location
    Rogers, MN
    Posts
    21,030
    Thanks (Received)
    21
    Likes (Received)
    45
    Dislikes (Received)
    0
    gotta lift the motor up to do it, there is not enough room to get to all the bolts and get it out.

    SMGPFC Member #1
    Reply With Quote  
     

  3. #3 Re: Oil pan replacment 
    GTP Level Member chevyy1212's Avatar
    Join Date
    Oct 2008
    Location
    IL
    Posts
    974
    Thanks (Received)
    0
    Likes (Received)
    0
    Dislikes (Received)
    0
    Quote Originally Posted by Fivefingerdeathpunch View Post
    gotta lift the motor up to do it, there is not enough room to get to all the bolts and get it out.
    Damn. So were talkin qwite the project then?

    Whoever owned my car before must have checked a curb and left the scuff cuz theres some rust workin at it pretty good.
    1998 GS with Open cone, PLOG, ZZP Catless DP, tune & Intense MPS 3.6. Pulls good enough to make the woman smack me and call me a D!*k.
    Reply With Quote  
     

  4. #4 Re: Oil pan replacment 
    Killa Bee Scottydoggs's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2010
    Location
    new jersey
    Posts
    39,997
    Thanks (Received)
    63
    Likes (Received)
    166
    Dislikes (Received)
    5
    you could always clean up the rusty area with a scotch bright pad and paint the area with POR (paint over rust) paint, it stops rust in its tracks.

    98 Buick Regal GS, F body brakes, Caddy STS wheels, tinted tails L36 bottom end, lightly ported heads, 1.95 roller rockers, headers, gen 5 N* 3.0 pulley, FSIC, 42 lb injectors, a BrandonHall rebuilt trans, DHP tuned and AEM water/Meth injection https://goo.gl/gpV5kW
    Reply With Quote  
     

  5. #5 Re: Oil pan replacment 
    GTP Level Member chevyy1212's Avatar
    Join Date
    Oct 2008
    Location
    IL
    Posts
    974
    Thanks (Received)
    0
    Likes (Received)
    0
    Dislikes (Received)
    0
    Quote Originally Posted by scottydoggs View Post
    you could always clean up the rusty area with a scotch bright pad and paint the area with POR (paint over rust) paint, it stops rust in its tracks.
    I was actually taking that route lol. NOT the POR way tho wayy to expensive. I just got Krylons rust eliminator stuff. Ill clean it up reall good and put a few thick coats on and i think it should be good.
    1998 GS with Open cone, PLOG, ZZP Catless DP, tune & Intense MPS 3.6. Pulls good enough to make the woman smack me and call me a D!*k.
    Reply With Quote  
     

  6. #6 Re: Oil pan replacment 
    Killa Bee Scottydoggs's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2010
    Location
    new jersey
    Posts
    39,997
    Thanks (Received)
    63
    Likes (Received)
    166
    Dislikes (Received)
    5
    i think you can get pints or quarts for under 30 bucks,(you'll find something else to use it on down the road too)

    por is the sh1t tho, my brother painted the his whole frame and under body on a 85 Chevy pick up truck and it looks like the day he did it, and that was like 8 years ago. once you put it on it never comes off, not by itself anyway.

    98 Buick Regal GS, F body brakes, Caddy STS wheels, tinted tails L36 bottom end, lightly ported heads, 1.95 roller rockers, headers, gen 5 N* 3.0 pulley, FSIC, 42 lb injectors, a BrandonHall rebuilt trans, DHP tuned and AEM water/Meth injection https://goo.gl/gpV5kW
    Reply With Quote  
     

  7. #7 Re: Oil pan replacment 
    GTP Level Member chevyy1212's Avatar
    Join Date
    Oct 2008
    Location
    IL
    Posts
    974
    Thanks (Received)
    0
    Likes (Received)
    0
    Dislikes (Received)
    0
    Quote Originally Posted by scottydoggs View Post
    i think you can get pints or quarts for under 30 bucks,(you'll find something else to use it on down the road too)

    por is the sh1t tho, my brother painted the his whole frame and under body on a 85 Chevy pick up truck and it looks like the day he did it, and that was like 8 years ago. once you put it on it never comes off, not by itself anyway.
    Hmmmm that is cheap enough. I swore it was more expensive maybe Ill just do that then. Even tho If I just sprayed it every year I should still end up just the same ya think. Even tho I kno I should be replacing it...........
    1998 GS with Open cone, PLOG, ZZP Catless DP, tune & Intense MPS 3.6. Pulls good enough to make the woman smack me and call me a D!*k.
    Reply With Quote  
     

  8. #8 Re: Oil pan replacment 
    Killa Bee Scottydoggs's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2010
    Location
    new jersey
    Posts
    39,997
    Thanks (Received)
    63
    Likes (Received)
    166
    Dislikes (Received)
    5
    if your re spraying it year after year, that means moisture is getting to the rust area, and causing the paint to bubble or peel or flake off,(and continuing to rust) with por that never happens again, it seals the rust and never lets air or moisture to get to the area again, thus preventing the rust from getting any worse than it already is.

    don't sand it all nice and smooth either, wire brush it or scotch bright pad, (leave it rusty, remove anything loose) clean the painted areas around it and paint it on, that's it, very little prep work.

    from what i've been told por was originally invented to coat battery trays, its acid resistant and all that good stuff.

    98 Buick Regal GS, F body brakes, Caddy STS wheels, tinted tails L36 bottom end, lightly ported heads, 1.95 roller rockers, headers, gen 5 N* 3.0 pulley, FSIC, 42 lb injectors, a BrandonHall rebuilt trans, DHP tuned and AEM water/Meth injection https://goo.gl/gpV5kW
    Reply With Quote  
     

  9. #9 Re: Oil pan replacment 
    GTX Level Member Jakegday's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 2008
    Location
    Fremont Nebraska
    Posts
    585
    Thanks (Received)
    0
    Likes (Received)
    0
    Dislikes (Received)
    0
    Quote Originally Posted by Fivefingerdeathpunch View Post
    gotta lift the motor up to do it, there is not enough room to get to all the bolts and get it out.
    you can also get it done by dropping the subframe. depending on your tools and work environment, (i.e. my apartment parking stall) this may be a little easier..
    2001 GT: cat/ubend/resonator delete, zzp PLOG, custom intake, DHP pcm
    Reply With Quote  
     

  10. #10 Re: Oil pan replacment 
    GTP Level Member chevyy1212's Avatar
    Join Date
    Oct 2008
    Location
    IL
    Posts
    974
    Thanks (Received)
    0
    Likes (Received)
    0
    Dislikes (Received)
    0
    Quote Originally Posted by scottydoggs View Post
    if your re spraying it year after year, that means moisture is getting to the rust area, and causing the paint to bubble or peel or flake off,(and continuing to rust) with por that never happens again, it seals the rust and never lets air or moisture to get to the area again, thus preventing the rust from getting any worse than it already is.

    don't sand it all nice and smooth either, wire brush it or scotch bright pad, (leave it rusty, remove anything loose) clean the painted areas around it and paint it on, that's it, very little prep work.

    from what i've been told por was originally invented to coat battery trays, its acid resistant and all that good stuff.
    Oh I havent sprayed it yet. Just bought the paint... Your really making me thinking just POR it and never worry again...

    Quote Originally Posted by Jakegday View Post
    you can also get it done by dropping the subframe. depending on your tools and work environment, (i.e. my apartment parking stall) this may be a little easier..
    My tools are limited to the set I got for auto in Highschool and I got my drivway to work. Id MUCH rather replace it than POR it but thats cash I dont have for sure right now. Im still looking for a decent shop for my LIM that wont rape me on price
    1998 GS with Open cone, PLOG, ZZP Catless DP, tune & Intense MPS 3.6. Pulls good enough to make the woman smack me and call me a D!*k.
    Reply With Quote  
     

  11. #11 Re: Oil pan replacment 
    I live here. MoarkatsINmuhtrailer's Avatar
    Join Date
    Apr 2010
    Location
    Ohio
    Posts
    5,150
    Thanks (Received)
    0
    Likes (Received)
    0
    Dislikes (Received)
    0
    its a pain in the ass. i started the project at 4 pm on a saturday and ended at 745am sunday morning....with about 3 hours of ****ing around (eating and what not) no sleeep though
    Reply With Quote  
     

Similar Threads

  1. Cat back replacment (How to remove)
    By mgolin in forum 3.8L V6 Supercharged (L67)(L32)
    Replies: 7
    Last Post: 11-20-2010, 03:31 PM
Tags for this Thread

View Tag Cloud

Bookmarks
Bookmarks
Posting Permissions
  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •