I'm naturally aspirated and want to go faster

ok can you tell me how

im not trying to jack it my bad

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Bio248

homie, make your own thread. this is not your thread to jack.

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Quote:

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Originally Posted by bluegtp91

It's in the thread man.

Read it. Quit thread jackin

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You guys havent noticed i made him his own thread yet?

oh, i did. ive read through it a few times already.

how do i make one so ppl with stop giving me **** lol
bc i thought this was mine but i guess not lol
ive looked all over this site trying to find out how but i must of over looked it

oh jesus, this is your thread.

im dumb. continue on.

how do i make one though im completly lost

to answer your question:

Quote:

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Originally Posted by bluegtp91

6) Exhaust - Here is where a lot of misconception tends to occur. Many people think that when someone says exhaust work that they can run 3” straight pipe from the cat back and drop to a 3.4” pulley and think that they have done enough exhaust work. Wrong. The cat back is the least of your worries as is flows good enough and has been dyno tested to not show signs of flow issues until 350+WHP, which is around 400hp at the crank. Exhaust modding should be done as follows:

Headers – If you have the money, just buy them up front. Installing headers means you don’t have to worry about the Powerlog, U-Bend, or Downpipe. Flow is unmatched by any other exhaust setup and there are many brands out there to choose from. I have Pacesetter’s and love them for the price. Recently SS Autochrome or even EBay companies just as DNA or Speed Daddy have came out with SSAC/SLP knock off headers...choice is up to you but if you'd like to know more...follow the header thread linked below. Cost: $195-$1,000
See the Header thread typed by 01GTP here: http://www.grandprixforums.net/heade...ead-25922.html

Powerlog Front Manifold – The Front Manifold for any 3800 was casted very poor from the factory. Replacing it with a high flow unit from ZZPerformance gets rid of that nasty stock manifold, lowers KR, and gives you a few more ponies. ZZ Performance
Cost: $119.99+S&H
Downpipe/U-Bend Delete – One of the best mods for a GT/GTP you can do with basic hand tools as long as you spring for the bolt-in type DP. The Downpipe and U-Bend are both hands down the most restrictive part of the exhaust system on our cars. If you ever plan on buying headers you will either have to demod to install them or wait and buy headers to being with. If your modding is not going to be very intense or internal, then the PLOG/DP setup is right for you. ZZPerformance or Hogan Performance are the only places where I would get a Downpipe from. For you GT guys if you ever plan on Top Swapping your L36 motor or you GTP guys that have minor to mild bolt-ons, lean towards the 3” Downpipe, Catted or Race Pipe, that is up to you as there is no more gains in a de-catted car to one that has one. If you are a GT/GTP guy and want a cheap weld-in Downpipe...then go for the Shorty DP. GT guys tend to go for the 2.5” as being Naturally Aspirated you want a bit more back pressure. See more info in depth here: ZZ Performance
Cost: $89.99 - $200+

Cat-Back Exhaust System – If you are done with all of your other mods exhaust wise and still want a different sound, look into exhaust systems. You will not gain any sort of power increase from this, in fact, it is rumored cat-backs can harm these cars’ performance ratings. I won’t go into detail but there are many systems out there available. Prices are for pre-assembled bolt-in kits. Cost: $379.99+

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Everything you could possibly want to know about basic engine mods is in the thread which is linked in my sig.

ok thanks matt
how do i make a thread for future reference

click the new thread button when you open up a section. top left

im not seeing it

alright i got it thanks guys

:th_doh::th_sign-withstupid: