Thread: #3 cylinder missing after 20 seconds of full throttle?

My car ran great up untill today when the wife pissed me off and I spin the tires hard in reverse and drive on solid ice(I know dumb). Anyway ever since then #3 is now missing/misfireing and its shooting a code for it only happens at 70% throttle its was 100% fine up untill then with good power. I changed out the plug just to see and it helped a little but still sluggish and you can kinda feel it bogging. Im gooing to do a full tuneup coils all plugs and wires this weekend. It just seems odd that it would happen after a qwite 20-30 hard whoppin. It was high rpms fast and pretty much not moving. I have read a bnch of threads just confused why it would happen after that.

Originally Posted by gtpinsc

mods? miles on car?

Stock 1998 supercharged with 61,xxx miles. Confusing

Originally Posted by bluegtp91

What did the plug look like when you pulled it out...damaged or bent at all?

Probably just a wire since you changed the plug and not the wire.

No the plug wasnt damaged but wa pretty white/grey even had a small tip of the grey buildup on the tip. I just got the car a week ago so havent done my own tune up yet. Would a hard full rev do this just because of plugs or wires? The new plug (606) helped it about 50% with the bogging issue.

could the injector go bad? switch coil pack see if it still misses on #3.my coil,wire,plug was fine bad injector

Originally Posted by 2003 gtp

could the injector go bad? switch coil pack see if it still misses on #3.my coil,wire,plug was fine bad injector

Im replacing them all anyway since there all still stock. If it comes down to injectors Ill just switch 2 around and see. My thing of confusion is it was fine even under full load untill my 20 second hissy fit on the ice. It would be a far strech but could anything get knocked loose(that makes zero sense). Anyway Ill do all the plugs wires and coils and update after this weekend. It would be awesome if after I do you guys could chime back in I know how threads go dead fast. If anyone has any weird thoughts/ideas toss them my way.

Originally Posted by gtpinsc

theres always that chance of clogged cat converter and u were knocking. did it only do it once?

No it did it for that full drive after that 15 minutes or so. Then it sat for a couple hours and kept doing it. So with a clogged cat and say I was knocking that would point to what direction??? Like I said it started after I whopped its a** on ice for 20 seconds. Didnt do it once before that.

Originally Posted by gtpinsc

theres always that chance of clogged cat converter and u were knocking. did it only do it once?

If it makes a difference the SES blinks at WOT and just stays on steady when Im not in it hard.

Originally Posted by bluegtp91

Flashing SES light is a P0300...which is a random misfire code. I wouldn't be beating on it at all and get those plugs/wires changed ASAP...remove the coils and clean underneath them just to insure a good connection to the ICM.

Didnt know that thanks alot. By the time I got it to Advance Auto it was just a steady light and just read #3 misfire. I havent beat on it since it started except the one more time to see if it was just a fluke. You have any recomendations for what to clean under the coils with. I got some electrical connection cleaner or is this just a wire brush job. So when Im WOT and its flashing that means all the cylinders are acting up or just thats when #3 is being a pain? You guys are a huge help.

Originally Posted by bluegtp91

Random misfire means just that...could be #1, or #5...or hell, all of them like a party in the block

I just removed the coils and wiped them off with a towel that had electrical cleaner on it; right. Just enough to get the dirt and grime and sh1t out of there to insure a strong connection so you can rule that out...and that is free too. I would also say...when you remove the coil packs...clean the terminals the plug wires connect to...I used 2000 grit sandpaper...I'm sure it isn't the best idea as I have heard most people use a scotch-brite pad or steelwool...the object is just to get rid of the oxidation/contaminants...then...toss in a new set of Autolite 606's gapped @ .055" and a new set of lifetime warranty Duralast wires from AutoZone. That should do the trick...if NOT...spring for coil packs next. You can get a good used set from this guy here: Morad Parts Company - 3800 Motors, Transaxles, & Stock Parts

OR...

buy them new from Autozone or here @ ZZPerformance <<there they sell for IIRC, $25 a coil.

One more qwick question since you seem to be the man and know your sh*t. Any clue on why this would start on my short peddle to the floor WOT on the ice for 20 seconds? Im just trying to add that up.

I did put one 606 in #3 and it did help SOME I left the wallet at home and just had change just for one. I was gonna get new coils anyway since the car is 13 years old and Im pretty sure there factory coils. Wires for sure

Havent got to clear the code yet. Yea it was white/greyish with a little buildup. Im sure as h*ll I hit the rev. limiter I was pretty pissed and just floored it till I realized I was an idiot to late tho. It seems to go to real hell @ 4,000 rpm. Either way the WORK ON MEE therory makes sense as long as you wouldnt think it knocked sumthing loose out or anything like that even tho if that were the cae my plug woulda been smashed