Thread: 98 GTP Modded Overheating as soon as starting

UMMM.............. YEAH, put that stock pulley back on or else the motor will blow up.

Do you have headers or any exhaust mods??

If not the car is bringing in more air than it can put out, so pretty soon the motor will blow up in your face. You have KNOCK becuase you have no flow mods.

PLEASE READ THIS BEFORE YOU START PUTTING ANY MODS ON: http://www.grandprixforums.net/f81/s...car-17482.html

see my coolant is circulating. and my prob is i followed what i was told to do on another website and all the info i get is conflicting. but the other gtp i got a few months ago it has a 3.4 pulley on it with CAI and the only flow mod it has is the cat was removed.

Did you read what I said??? This site has really good info and trust me about the pulley. Your motor will thank you for doing it.

Get headers. I would get them quick befor anything happens to the motor.

Im sorry for going completely away from the orginal post, but Im just trying to help you out and to save the motor.

are ur hoses gettin warm? lower and upper? 180 t stat is gonna do nothing for u without a tune.... quick question... why buy a car from someone that u knew didnt take care of it?

bottom hose?

put another 195 thermo in and see what happens... have u flushed coolant recently? or added coolant when it was really low?

Originally Posted by gpaddictiongtp9798

i havent flushed recently. i know that i do need a 180 thermostat, but as for the coolant when it first overheated the the resevior tank cap flew off and the coolant was shooting out. and i had to take some coolant out of there. but when i shut the car off you hear the coolant flowing thru all the tubes. that has gotten to be really loud. but the car has been really taken care of since i got it. ive pretty much flushed and replaced everything needed to date

I am hearing you say you cannot keep coolant "down" in the engine. After the coolant is filled up, you start the car, it is "warmed up" and you turn the heater on, does it blow hot air or just “luke warm” air? If it is “luke warm air”, I have had this problem with an older 3.8L 231. Let me know if this is the case (drove me nuts for about 11 months following, a complete engine rebuild). Four flushes and 3 thermostats later, had to replace the heads (yea after one year). The culprit turned out to be a "remain" water pump. The pump impeller was slipping and "fell" off of the back of the water pump and hit the ground, when I removed the water pump from the front of the engine. Yea, "the impeller separated from the pump body and rang like a bell when it hit the ground". All that trouble just to save $11.00 off a new pump (lifetime). The loose impeller was moving just enough water to look like it was pumping. The heater (core) problem was also solved permanently with the water pump replacement. Sounds crazy but that’s why I asked about the Heater Air temp. That’s the only reason I asked. Good luck.

dude ... did u burp the coolant system with the bleeder valves? sounds like thats ur prob... theres screws right by top hose that u loosen up to let air out.... basically loosen screw.. start car and let it warm up... add coolant through radiator as needed... repeat this a few times. to get all the air out of the system.

Originally Posted by gtpinsc

dude ... did u burp the coolant system with the bleeder valves? sounds like thats ur prob... theres screws right by top hose that u loosen up to let air out.... basically loosen screw.. start car and let it warm up... add coolant through radiator as needed... repeat this a few times. to get all the air out of the system.

THIS.

I blew a rad hose, and when I replaced it I did not know about the bleeder screw, and I had problems with the temp jumping up and down. after reading about it on this awsome site, I bled the line (many times) and it runs perfect now.

That's insane your running a 3.4 pulley without any real mods ? I would also look into a tuned PCM right after the headers. You can't skimp a 3.4 set up without enduring damage.

my gp had a coolant leak and it turned out to be leaking from the block heater so i had to replace it with a frost plug