Thanks for all the responses guys, I guess when i get home tonight I will reconnect it just to be on the safe side.
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Thanks for all the responses guys, I guess when i get home tonight I will reconnect it just to be on the safe side.
I had posted this earlier in another thread about discussion on the alt rewire/OEM wire.... It applies to this situation too:
Have you ever measured the volts?
1. OEM Wire only
2. OEM wire AND Rewire
3. Rewire only
I think the results of those tests will give you a better perspective on what is more helpful. (only flaw I see is that each car is different on volts, but it will still be an overall good test)
Synthetic also said it would be good to measure the volts of each wire too while they are both connected.
I don't have the rewire or voltage booster yet, so I can't do the test.... but it would be interesting to see the results if anyone measures it!
I've got a scan gauge now, and it wouldn't be hard to do this for me (since I can see the volts digitally). I may undertake this tomorrow.
A better test would be a multimeter, and measure the resistance from the alternator positive post to the posts at the fuse box.
I didn't do it today. Too much running to do. And, the more I thought about it, I'm not going to see a difference with the scan gauge since the alternator compensates for it. Like Synth said it needs to be under heavy load and the most load I can put on it would be to turn on my fans and rear defroster. I don't have a high power audio system.
I really need a multimeter.
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