Thread: Getting a car battery

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  1. #1 Getting a car battery 
    Donating Users Warbeaver's Avatar
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    So, I think my second walmart everstart battery is crapping out. Not that its hard starting my car, but my electronics such as my volt gauge, some interior lights, and my driver foglight like to flicker and they all gradually started doing the stuff around the same time. I think its a problem with my battery cuz its been powering bixenon hids, hid fogs, gauges, upgraded interior lights, and a fuel rewire, along with the normal stuff it has to power.

    These batteries arent that great. The car had an everstart in it before i bought it, and it crapped out way before the warranty was due. I also had problems with same battery in my grand am gt. Hence, why i think the batter is going bad or has a bad cell or something. My car didnt use to do this stuff, and it all happened at once, which is why i think its a loss of electrical power issue.

    So, what battery is good besides Optima? im looking around the $90 or less range. Durlast any good? and what should the Cold Cranking Amps and the Cranking Amps be at for a grand prix with my electrical consumption mods?

    Thanks
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  2. #2 Re: Getting a car battery 
    GTP Level Member QwikGT's Avatar
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    i have a sears diehard im pretty sure they give you a lifetime replacement too, only cost me $100
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  3. #3 Re: Getting a car battery 
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    looks like my battery isnt the right one. if i pull up duralast on autozone, it says i should have a 1000 CA battery. Mine is 900...
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  4. #4 Re: Getting a car battery 
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    My 2007 had an AC/Delco Professional series battery. It was under 700 CCA, something like 680 if I remember correctly.

    I replaced it a few days ago with a red top optima, they are on sale right now at autozone for 149.99, the one with top and side posts.

    Duralast gold series is a good battery, 3 yr. free replacement.
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  5. #5 Re: Getting a car battery 
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    You sir are insane to think that your electrical problems are a direct result of the "quality" of your battery.

    your car draws power from the alt when its on so i dont see you needing a higher Ah rating just because you have more electronics.
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  6. #6 Re: Getting a car battery 
    GTX Level Member cerick08GP's Avatar
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    Matt read my mind; I was thinking the same thing before even reading the posts.

    I would have the alternator checked out. Also, who ever checks it make sure your car is warmed up, turn everything on to really work the alternator. Then check it right away, while it is still hot. The reasoning is the alternator diodes get weak when hot. Another area to check is all the battery connections, make sure there solid. Especially the fender ground, it was marginal from the factory and gets worse over time because the fender well has a drain right above it.

    Also, I would like to vote for Diehard as a good replacement battery.
    Good luck.

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  7. #7 Re: Getting a car battery 
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    idk if its the alternator. its pretty new. my car still puts out 14V....

    where exactly is the fender ground? would i be able to access it by taking off the wheel splash guards or do you have to go in from the engine bay?
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  8. #8 Re: Getting a car battery 
    GTX Level Member cerick08GP's Avatar
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    Your battery has two ground cables, the short one is grounded adjacent to the battery and is easily accessed from the engine bay. The other idea I had is make sure the battery is fastened down well. It’s possible if the wrong sized (frame) battery has been used, and the mount may not be holding it securely. Which leads me to another idea; do you have any front end vibration issues with your car? Vibration can kill a battery fast.

    Ten years of continuous driving excitement and counting!
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