1997 Tensioner removal

[rmortime]

i'm trying to replace the coolant elbows on my 97' GP GT. The upper elbow was completely cracked in half and the other half is stuck in the belt tensioner assembly. However, to get it out i need to remove the tensioner which is where I'm having trouble. I have wiggled forward and back ~1' and pulled on it for over an hour and i still CANNOT get the lower aluminum elbow out. i'm actually sore from pulling on it so much.

Is there any tricks or advice to get it out? I have WD'ed the h*ll out of it. Would it be harmful to take a torch to it to try and expand the fitting which the aluminum elbow goes into or would this cause damage elsewhere.

Any advice would be great guys. Thanks.

[goldgp]

Yes a torch would be very bad, lol.I am not sure, but i think the upper plastic one is the only replaceable one.The aluminum one is part of the whole assembly and has an oring on it.Correct me if im wrong people.

[rmortime]

yeah, just the upper elbow is plastic, the lower is apart of the assembly with an oring on it. That elbow and o-ring are what is keeping me from removing the whole assembly.

Also, i would torch the aluminum around the lower aluminum elbow...not near the plastic elbows.

[txslow6]

Did you remove both bolts after removing the alternator?

[BillBoost37]

Spray it with more penetrating fluid to rehydrate the o-ring. It's crusty and dry on the outside.

Then wiggle more. If you yank on it and break the timing cover, you'll be much unhappier.

[rmortime]

@txslow - yup got all 3 bolts removed from the tensioner and can rock it back and forth approx 1", and have about 1/8 of play in the elbow side to side.

@billboost - yeah i think you're right on with that o-ring. I'm pretty sure all the heat and wear over the years has just dry rooted and hardened that o-ring on that lower elbow to the point it is completely rigid and thus not compressing and flexing as I try to pull it out. So just some basic penetrating spray should soften up that o-ring? I've sprayed a fair amount of WD in there already without much result...but i question how much of the WD fluid is actually making contact with the o-ring. I might jack up that passenger side of the car a bit to ensure the fluid runs towards the driver side of the car to the o-ring.

The last thing i want to do is crack my timing cover, so yeah any suggestions for getting that o-ring to cooperate or even to make it disappear and dissolve i'm willing to try.

[BillBoost37]

Break the plastic upper elbow. That'll give you more swing. Now spray..and rock.. rock rock rock rock..wiggle wiggle wiggle.

it's usually a 30 min battle at most. Just be super careful about not pulling it straight out and getting any angle on that piece.

We know you can do it.

[rmortime]

haha thanks for the enthusism. yeah the plastic elbow was shattered so its not there and i have rocked and wiggle the h*ll out of it already. I'm going to be giving it another try in a day or so.

So its not best to pull it straight out but it is better to pull it out at a slight angle? As in rocking it back and forth by the heater or water pump hose and the alternator bracket bolt arm on the assembly. Is that what you were saying.

[BillBoost37]

What I'm saying is...if you put pressure on that timing cover. You'll be buying and replacing a timing cover as well.

[txslow6]

I would just take a rubber mallet and beat the tensioner from behind. Or strategically place a screw driver in certain areas of the tensioner and just beat on that.