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I got the GMPP sway bar kit for $80 and installed it myself on my 99.
Yes they do crack and break, other GM vehicles has the same issue. The problem is, the bars are hallow and rust out. The bars mostly snap or crack at the ends, where the steel was pressed down to be flat.
One end of mine was cracked, the other completely broken off.
The replacements are solid steel, the way the bar should have been from the beginning.
i ended up going with the Sherman brand from rockauto.comQuote:
Originally Posted by andremike
they have served me quite well
Front is still tubular.Quote:
Originally Posted by toolguy
GM Performance 12498643 - GM Performance Anti-Sway Bars - Overview - SummitRacing.com
$65 with endlinks, used one of these on my Sisters 98 GT and looks like much better quality then junk OE!
FWIW, there is a lot of myths about tranny flushes. Very good write-up by Dave on his site:Quote:
Originally Posted by SnowDrift
4T65E Transmission Info
Quote:
The myths of the Deadly Trans Flush:
This is one subject that leaves a lot of people in mistrust, doubt, wrongful information and a bitter feeling when mentioned. First of all let me clarify what a transmission flush REALLY does since it is very commonly misunderstood. A transmission fluid flush machine does nothing more than hook up in line with your transmission cooler. One line hooks up to the supply coming from the trans and the other line hooks back up to the return side, which is in series with the cooler. This IN NO WAY flushes the inside of the transmission! All it does is take the old fluid from the transmission side out and replace what goes back in with fresh new fluid. There is no magic wand that crawls inside the transmission and pressure washes anything to disturb particles and gunk buildup. The transmission fluid flush machine has a bladder inside that transfers existing pressure that comes out of the transmission, roughly 10-40 psi, and passes it along to the opposite side of the bladder containing new fluid to properly displace the same amount that came out. NOW with that said here are some problems. I have seen many times where a shop did a flush and NEVER checked the trans fluid before OR after the flush! I have found cars up to 4 quarts low on fluid because of this neglect and leaving the customer stranded with a burned up transmission. It is more of a user or operater problem than the machines fault, its just putting back in what came out.... or is supposed to. During transmission fluid flushes there is also an additive that commonly is added before the flush to help clean the inside of the trans and can be harsh if the transmission has been very neglected over its life. After a transmission ages, and the fluid ages respectively, things chemically change inside the trans as far as friction materials and the adhesives on them. If you never change your trans fluid and it has very high mileage on it or is severly burnt then NEVER expect a flush to magically cure problems or expect new fresh fluid with strong detergents not to cause problems. It is a shock to the transmission to remove all of the old well past due fluid with all new fluid and the new fluid with its fresh strong detergents can break down the friction materials and adhesives that bond them to the clutch plates. On a vehicle with higher mileage and an unknown past it is always much safer to drop the pan and change the fluid and filter, that way you are giving the fluid a chance to slowly adapt, new with old and not be such a chemical shock to everything. Again checking the fluid level is a MUST! Neglect is the biggest problem with transmissions and making sure the fluid level is full and periodically serviced is the best you can do for it. Another problem is that new transmission fluid has friction modifiers in it and tend to keep shifts smooth. A lot of times if you change trans fluid that is old and burnt with new fluid it will feel like it is shifting softer, that is because the fluid is doing its job again. Fortunately on computer controlled transmission this can be troublesome since the pcm controls shift timing and now has to play catchup to firm up shifts because it has been softening them up over time. Not a common occurance but again neglect will only lead to worst case scenarios. I have nothing wrong with flush machines IF used properly and not used on a trans that is just plain worn out, again it is not a solution fix all, it is maintenance pure and simple and if neglected too long then only time will tell longevity of the trans. I hope this clears up some of the confusion and mislead information that has been floating around for years. I have NEVER seen a flush machine cause a failure, I HAVE seen an operater of a flush machine cause a failure.
Good follow-up! Thanks for posting. That puts some light on a few things.
This is the kit I got from my local dealer and getting the P/N from gmpartsdirect.Quote:
Originally Posted by matt5112
It is a solid steel bar...
GM Sway Bar Kit~Grand Prix~Impala~Monte Carlo~1997-2005:eBay Motors (item 390111578297 end time Nov-27-09 09:34:15 PST)
trueQuote:
Originally Posted by toolguy
I put on the GMPPP 34mm bar, came with poly end links and frame mounts, it was 65$, best money spent on the car yet. It does take some trial and error getting it to fit properly because the larger diameter tends to interfere with other parts around it. I have read it can be put in up, or down, depending on your car.
For any of you folks that can weld or know someone who really can weld: jack it up at least a foot, free the bar from the end links, loosen the bushings sufficiently to allow you to move it left and right clamp and tack it and be sure to run good tacks across the face where the 2 pressed together ends meet, run a full pass over everything and reinforce the cracked areas with a multipal stringers. Cost two dollars in welding rod. Keep a fire extinguisher handy just in case. Put a peice of tin between the engine and the bar when you're welding and cover the brakes with a welding blanket or another peice of tin. Wrap the weld with fiberglass and let it slow cool. Took me about an hour 5 years ago, still holding. If you can TIG weld so much the better, no sparks and a much smaller heat effected zone.
For the cost it's better to just buy a sway bar...and upgrade at the same time.
^^ this guy is crazy but for once he speaks truth.
Mine has been completely broken on the GTP for about a year. Shop quoted me a similar price.
ok now im confused. this whole time i was under the impression that solid sway bars are way better than hollow. but u guys make it seem like GMPP is the way to go. so what should i get? cuz mine is completely broken on both sides lol so i have no sway bar.
Just get the dorman bar.
GMPP is slightly more than the price of dorman and you get a rear as well.
Consider I've seen cars snap the rear sways in the same fashion.