Protecting your investment

[Fubisin]

Guys

All of us have made an investment in our cars, wether it be a 10 sec mod'd or a base stock SE, we still put out the coin to own them.
If you bought new, you really dont have to worry about the last guys maintenance schedule. If you bought used, you maybe a little bit more leary about the services your GP got. When you think about services and maintenance you think of oil change, tranny service, coolant flush, balancing, brakes etc.
I recently went to the local auto parts shop and looked around at the different treatments you can buy- Oil treatment, fuel treatment, tranny treatment, etc. All had there own simple instructions and seemed to have very little cost to them.
My question is, Are these treatments just a cash grab or would they actually work to protect my investment? I have read the blogs about them, looked at the specifics and have seen comments going both ways, good and bad.
Is it worth doing for example a oil treatment the next time I change my oil? Throwing in a quart of fuel treatment (not injector cleaner) the next time I fill up or tossing a quart of tranny treatment in when I get my service?
My biggest thing is, protecting my investment. Be it that I bought used and even with going to the dealer it was bought at, they cant give me the info I want- just the basics.
What do I do? I have a service schedule and follow it to a T, but is it worth the extra coin with these treatments?

Thanks
Mike

[TheOtherNick]

Put good oil and gas in it and you will not need additives.

[crashman]

Most of the time think that "most" of that stuff is snake oil. Me I use the synthetic oil, and trans fluid. When I change the oil I through in a bottle of the injector cleaner because of all the crap that's in the gas we get now, don't know if it helps................but it can't hurt . I've gotten over 200,000 (on average) on all of my vehicles. Just my opinion.

[toolguy]

No, never use these things!

And really, if you need to, or feel the need, you have an issue and are not fixing it the right way.

Specifically stay away from Z-Max products!

The only one to use is ChevronTechron Fuel System Cleaner. That is really all you need to use if your engine and other parts, are all running and functioning as they should. You will never need to add and additive!

[matt5112]

Specifically stay away from Z-Max products!

And I was going to say that was the only one I've heard actually did anything. Since I don't believe everything I hear I did a quick check and guess what it says on their own website when you go to the technical section looking for proof: zMax | Technical

zMAX spent $4.5 million testing our product to the FTC that zMAX works. The tests conducted on zMAX are based on accepted protocols as directed by the Society of Automotive Engineers (SAE) and the American Society of Testing and Materials (ASTM). zMAX requires a "soak in" period in order to achieve maximum benefit, therefore, when necessary, the protocols have been modified only to include a "soak in" period for zMAX. Oil-Chem has performed the following tests:

SAE J1321 - designed to measure fuel economy changes of in-service vehicles.
Auger Electron Spectroscopy - designed to measure the penetration of a material into a metal subsurface.
Modified CRC L-38 - capable of measuring bearing, cylinder, piston and valve guide wear; horsepower; piston deposits; and oil deterioration.
ASTM D4172 (Four Ball Method - Prevention of Wear) - designed to measure anti-wear properties of a lubricant.
ASTM D5182 (Four Ball Method - Coefficient of Friction) - designed to measure the coefficient of friction of a lubricant.
ASTM G99 (Pin on Disc Method) - designed to measure the coefficient of friction of a lubricant.
ASTM D2174 (Block on Ring Test) - designed to measure the coefficient of friction of a lubricant.
ASTM D1748 - designed to measure rust preventive properties of metal preservation.
Modified Sequence VIII - capable of measuring bearing, cylinder, piston and valve guide wear; horsepower; piston deposits; oil deterioration, and fuel efficiency.
TEOST MHT-4 Thermo-oxidation Engine Oil Simulation Test - designed to measure and emulate deposits that would occur in the piston and ring area of a modern engine.
FTP 75 - designed to measure the emissions of a vehicle under normal city and suburban driving conditions.
BAR 90 - designed to measure the in-use emissions level of vehicles for controlling air quality.
Following is a technical synopsis of these tests and which of our advertising claims each supports. Specific copies of each test are only available upon request.

Various test information can be reviewed at Oil-Chem Research Corp. upon written request, certain proprietary restrictions apply.

Another good line: http://www.zmax.com/why/chemical_roulette/

What the counter person or consumer should know is that zMAX is not an additive; zMAX is a pure Micro-lubricant® that treats the metal, not the oil or fuel

From Wikipedia: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Oil_additive

Oil additives are used to improve the base oil (or oil "base stock") into a better performing lubricant. By utilizing the same base stock, many different oils can be manufactured, each with its own unique properties.
Nearly all motor oils currently being sold have an additive package, whether they are synthetic or petroleum based. Essentially, only API Service SA motor oils have no additives whatsoever, and they are therefore incapable of protecting modern engines.

So who's the company without any proof and doesn't know what the term additive is?

[Iron Indian]

Most additives are snake oil and just a waste of money. All I would EVER put in my crankcase is motor oil period. The only product i've used and have actully seen good results with over the years is Chevron Techron fuel system cleaner. I usually run one tank of this yearly.

[PH04GTP]

I use a can of seafoam in my fuel every oil change in all three of my vehicles. Bar none the best fuel system cleaner on the market. I don't subscribe to any of the other "treatment" products. Most are just band-aids because the owner can't afford or doesn't care to fix the problem properly. Proper maintnance is the only protection you should ever need.

[Fubisin]

Personnally, I would agree with everyone, maintanence is the key word, not quick fix.

[01gtspecial]

put mobil 1 anywhere you can put mobil 1 and you'll be fine. tune or no tune, i think everyone should run premium as well.

[cerick08GP]

Well my personal plan has basically always been follow the maintenance schedule for severe duty, with a little horse sense thrown in. I aim for ahead of schedule, so if I run over it is no big deal.

Motor Oil - change every 5k (or synthetic @ 8k) until oil filters get better I don’t see this changing. Just on a side note, IHMO run synthetic if you have the coin. I have been working in manufacturing most of my life, and it is a fact that gear boxes run 10x longer with it. For what it is worth to the oil is oil ppl. And just to throw this in, if you ever over heat the engine, change your oil ASAP.

Tranny fluid - change every 50k-75k depending on where and how you drive. I definitely recommend Dexron6, or an equivalent. The funny thing is every single tranny fluid change I have ever gotten I have had some “mechanic” recommend that I not do it. Based solely on the age of my car, either being to new or to old. How I look at it is one tranny is worth a life time of fluid changes, just do it.

Air filter - change every year or get a washable one and be done with it. Clean out your air box twice a year.

PCV valve - change every two years. Clean it and check it out once a year.

Battery - change it every 5 years. Clean it and check voltage once a year. On the same note, check your grounds once a year also.

Fuel - always use the proper octane for your car. Use a cheap FI cleaner that is cat friendly twice a year. Once about now, and once at the first snow fall that sticks. Or use SeaFoam (just in the gas) once a year, these FI cleaners will clear deposits and remove any water. And maybe most importantly, use the top half of your gas tank. It is a mental thing, not a cost thing. Get over it.

Well, that is ALL I have to say about that.

[Pittman06]

1/2 quart of Lucas oil stabilizer per oil change, one small bottle of lucas fuel treatment (its basically a lubricator only) per oil change in every car, and stick to the schedule (atleast what i do, and to each his own) Keep in mind your power steering needs flushed, along with your brake system. Especially on cars like ours that are known for rack issues, have a power steering flush done when it looks dirty, it will save your rack!!