Thread: Oil leak

Valve cover gaskets more than likely. I just changed mine out on my GT.

for the front you have to loosen up the coil bracket bolts/nuts....as it curves over the front valve cover.

the rear....I had taken off the rear engine lift bracket..for ease of removal. I had also rocked the engine forward with a tow strap....this will give you more room to work.

I dont believe there is a how to for this.......

if you can pick up a haynes maual....this will help out as well.

this should take someone up to 2hrs to do this..depending on skill level.

post up any questions you have.

also..remember to put a "dab" of RTV on the corners to "hold" the new gaskets in when reinstalling the covers.

I agree with UR LOSN, it is likely the valve cover gaskets. They are not terribly expensive and not particularly difficult to replace. Just be sure you get the gaskets for the GT as they are different from the ones for the GTP L67 engine.

On my GTP, I had the common valve cover leak. And also an oil pan leak. But the valve covers are much easier to change then the oil pan. So I would start with the valve covers. If the problem persists, then consider moving to the oil pan, if you are that concerned about the leaking oil.

On our cars, its likely to be both as they are both common problems.

Valve covers yes, for sure, and you can tell this if the heads them selfs are dirty with oil build up. This can leak on down the block and onto the oil pan over time. Can get on the manifolds and start to smoke and smell, so likely this is what your smelling.

To tell if its the oil pan, after you do the valve cover gaskets, i would clean the engine well removing as much of the caked on oil as you can from top to bottom. Might even have to get under the car, and scrub the pan are well with solvent and a brush. Then check under the car around the oil pan at the next oil change to see if it is the pan thats seeping.

The problem with the pan was when GM first made these newer engines back in 1996 or so the practice for the pan gasket to be installed by GM was a dry install. Later as the cars got older, and driven, they realized that this was a bad idea when they were being returned to the dealer for service, which requires the entire engine cradle/sub frame to be removed in order for the pan to be removed.

Later in the production years, the practice went from a dry installment to a wet one, using RTV on both sides of the pan gasket when it gets installed. This is the dealer fix now today on the earlier year cars when they come in for this repair, remove, clean well, use plenty of RTV gasket maker, and then re assemble using removable thread sealer on the pan bolt threads (blue loc-tite).

Doing a pan gasket is not fun for the average do it yourself-er. The engine has to be supported from the top as you drop the sub frame out the bottom. Many shops and dealerships will charge in the $500.00 range to do this service.

I charge $200.00 myself persionally, and have all the tools, and know how to do the job right the first time. So with that, you might find a individual who can do the same in your neck of the woods if your unable to do this yourself.

~F~