Thread: Cone filters

There is no advantage. If you were go with the $275 dollar one? You are best off to get a WizAir CAI kit or for a little less the Thrasher CAI kit.

The difference between the the $45 one and the more expensive is that you are leaving your Filter suceptable to Engine heat sucking hot into your intake and hendering your performance. The CAI units will at least keep your air temps ambient to the outside air as compared to the higher temps inside your engine well.

I hope that explains a bit more for ya?

Here is the Thrasher link....

THRASHER Engineered Performance Cold Air Induction Kits - at the home of Thrasher Engineered Performance - Pontiac Grand Prix GTP, Chevy Monte Carlo / Impala SS, Buick Regal GS

And here is the WizAir link. Sold on the ZZP Site.

ZZ Performance

I hope that helps to clear things up for ya

Originally Posted by archemedes

get teh AEM branded one it doesn't use oil (thanks for the tip synthetic shield)

Yeah I have an AEM Dry Flow air filter and love it.

In addition to the no oil, and better filtering capabilities, they don't have a metal mesh screen to create its form like K&Ns or knock-offs. They use a flexible plastic skeleton. I sometimes had to wrestle with my filter to get it in/out of my Wizaired box and it would give a little but pop right back into shape, good as new. With a K&N it would probably get bent and look like crap. All around it is a great filter. I will never buy another K&N.

My son and I both have the AEM filter in our cars.

I'd just search for the size you are looking for directly (google, ebay, etc.). Most filter dealers/manufacturers won't have GPs listed unless they make a specific system for it. I too recommend AEM Dryflow. It depends on what setup you are using for what you will need. Figure out the diameter intake you will have and mounting location and pick a size (ie. I use a 4" x 9" filter with my FWI). I believe the majority of AEM's cones are 5" or 9".

Yeah on a cone most you can't search by vehicle. The 4x9 - 4" flange i.d. and 9" long tapered filter cone is the one we have.

Originally Posted by bat119

I read the instuctions for installing the K&N filter system and it involves remounting the sensor inside the filter box, if I was to make a transition from the filterbox (where the old filter is now ) to the back of the cone filter enclosing the entire cone, would this have the same effect? (without touching the sensor inside the box)

I wouldn't get the K&N system, too expensive and does not isolate the filter from the underhood temps.

Originally Posted by IndeedSS

I wouldn't get the K&N system, too expensive and does not isolate the filter from the underhood temps.

Aye I would agree with Lee on this one. Its not a TRUE CAI system. Its just basically a heatshield and nothing more. The filter is still vulnerable to engine bay's heat. At least the WizAir and lesser the Thrasher would be keep things cooler in the longer and might cost a bit more, but its so much more worth it!!

The reason why I said "lesser the Thrasher" is because Reptile did a check of my air intake temp with my Thrasher CAI unit that was recovered with reflective heat wrapping and the temps were still way to high even for what the stock air box does. Thus the WizAir would be the wiser choice.

Just my 2c on that topic

Make it yourself out of PCV and something else for the box.

This is what I did very cheap and gets that sound. I am going to do more to it when it gets nice out like get a try CAI and get an air duct set up

I suggest going with a homemade FWI or HAI. Both can be done for under $60. And both of these options are going to give you the loudest SC whine

Originally Posted by 1998gpgt

I suggest going with a homemade FWI or HAI. Both can be done for under $60. And both of these options are going to give you the loudest SC whine

I had made one myself. The biggest cost is the filter if you DIY. Here are some pictures I did with mine. The only problem I had was wanting to cut that metal connector from the fender leading to the frame of the car to allow good fitment of the filter and piping. The only draw back is that the filter will just jacked up a lot quicker with dirt and potentially water getting on the filter.

I just went back to the SLP Ram Air box with a few modifications done to it

Geddy, Im curious as to how you held down the PCM? How hard was it to service the air filter when needed? Im also curious about the IAT location. Would that not give you a reading that was off a bit being where you have it as opposed to closer to the Throttle Body?

Im going to be playing with some ideas I have about setting up such an intake that will hopefully work a little better with holding down the PCM and making the filter a bit easier to service. Now that my car is down and I just about got the transportation issues worked out I can turn my attention back to getting the GTP back on the road along with some ideas I have wrote down and wanted to work on.

Where the IAT is at is only correct for the air entering the filter. Where GM placed it is where the PCM calculations from. Ideally an IAT sensor LIM would be more accurate, however, thats not the location the calculations are based upon either. With the stock location where it at, some extrapolating has to take place and based on a stock vehicle to be totally accurate.

Originally Posted by SyntheticShield

Geddy, Im curious as to how you held down the PCM? How hard was it to service the air filter when needed? Im also curious about the IAT location. Would that not give you a reading that was off a bit being where you have it as opposed to closer to the Throttle Body?

The PCM was actually just free standing. Its so heavy it doesnt move. I just put piece of foam underneath it for vibration purposes. It never moved in the couple of months I had that Fenderwell intake installed.

The IAT line you see going into the flashing actually lead into the PCV piping sucking in the air from the filter. So it was getting more accurate air temps. The setup I had, had the filter almost touching the bottom of the inside of the fender behind the foglight.

Reptile has a much better setup where his filter actually sits in the gap above the tirewell just inside the part where the pipe turns into the hole from the engine bay. He cut out the brace that connects the fender to the frame of the car to achieve his setup. Its a pretty neat setup. He will have to post some pictures of it to get a better feel for it.

Either way it is more difficult than your average changing of the stock or CAI style air filter, but the benifits are so much more