A/C problem. It works but it doesn't. Yes it's charged

also what gauge r u using? those gauges that tell you the pressure with your vehicle not running r crap crap crap crap i cant stress that enouph if you know anything about the physics of gases and liquids under pressure youll know that. as long as there is liquid refrigerant in the system whether it be just enoup[h, too much, or too little, the gauge will read exactly the same at idle. itll read a saturatin temperature of the outdoor climate. all havc systems r the same residential, comercial, or automotive. have you everf seen a hvac tech charge an outside unit without it running? no only with a gauge manifold for high and low side with the systme running and a proper knowlegde of hvac can you determine a proper charge without weighing in a fresh charge. you may be right and it may be the vents but that doesnt mean your charge is even close to correct. ive NEVER seen an ac system that has been worked on by a non hvac tech have a proper charge NEVER

ok... what does this have to do with the problem i stated above, its purely electrical. The car uses electronic climate control... so my problem has nothing to do with the actual a/c side of things. Also, i have a set of gauges not that cheap crap that you get with the can at the parts store. Seeing how its not the actual ac and rather an electrical problem on the blend door actuators, it has nothing to do with the charge. I dont know what you are trying to get at?

Yeah so like I was saying... My A/C does not seem to be working..... LOL

lol srry... the only thing i can tell you is maybe the electronic control unit is acting up... losing the signal to the computer and it kicks out?

It's cool man. Where would this thing be located?

the unit you press to turn on/off the a/c you know, under the radio. Idk if thats the cause, i just cant think of anything else at the moment.

Oh ok. Yeah I was actually going to look into that today but got tied up. Will be checking that out tomorrow.

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all havc systems r the same residential, comercial, or automotive. have you everf seen a hvac tech charge an outside unit without it running?

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After you pull a vacuum on a system(i shoot for 500 microns) it needs to be charged through you high side port while NOT running. use your scale and get as close to the factory charge as you can with just the bottle pressure. Then add whats needed through your suction (low side) port to get up to the factory charge. Just want to make that minor correction.

Also because you where able to command the clutch to pull it with HPT that says right away that your pressure switches are closed and the system is in ok condition to run. its not good for a compressor to run with a high heads pressure or low/no pressure so the HPT still keeps the pressure switches in the circuit but just bypasses the hvac control. i would turn your ac on(by the hvac control) and check for power to the pressure switches, then try and trace out the wiring back to the hvac control. that will give you an idea if there is something else in the circuit of if it is the hvac control

Ok I did not know if HPT would command the clutch on still if the low pressure side switch was bad or getting a low reading or not.


It's got to be something I messed with inside the car. I think it is funny that when I put everything back together the blend feature all of a sudden does not work along with the Compressor.


I just don't know what it could be.

the only issues i have ever had with the blend doors was because the vacuum line that runs to the hvac system broke. it runs along the top of the fire wall down the strut tower, behind the under hood fuse box and through the fire wall. When it broke it would cause all the air to come out the defoster and floor and could not be changed

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Originally Posted by gixer2000

the only issues i have ever had with the blend doors was because the vacuum line that runs to the hvac system broke. it runs along the top of the fire wall down the strut tower, behind the under hood fuse box and through the fire wall. When it broke it would cause all the air to come out the defoster and floor and could not be changed

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THANKS! I have not been out there but I know I did not hook that back up. I thought it went to the EVAP system. But Now I remember that is the one that is right by the fuel lines.


I noticed the A/C system has a Diode that is in the engine compartment fuse box, It's labled as a A/C clu diode.. How would I go about testing that? Could I just jump it off? Could that cause this?

im not sure if it can be jumped or not. diodes are used to keep electricity flowing 1 direction and keep from having a dead short between 12vdc and ground. if it where me i would not jump it. ill test mine in a few mins and get back to ya

cool. Thanks bud.

i have a diode tester on my multimeter so i know mine it good. then i tested it on an ohms scale and it does show resistance. so if you have an ohm meter you can get an idea if it good or not. you need to make sure you have you leads on it right because you will only measure resistance one way. black lead (<--) red lead. there will be a pic on the diode like the one i just typed. that arrow is the flow direction of the diode. it should be pointing at the top of the fuse box while pluged in. i measured it on my 600 scale and it showed 308K ohms

Thanks.

Does anyone feel like telling me which wire is ground and which one is positive going to the compressor?


I'm sure you already know what i'm going to do for a temp fix untill I can figure out what the real problem is.

haha.... no middle man

im not sure but if you unplug the the connector turn on the ac with HPT and test both wires for 12vdc to ground that will tell you

do not jump the diode out.. its there to keep voltage coming back and frying the computer....

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Originally Posted by gixer2000

im not sure but if you unplug the the connector turn on the ac with HPT and test both wires for 12vdc to ground that will tell you

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Ok guess i'll get my lazy but up and go do it this way LOL