Thread: overheating - loss of power

Originally Posted by JayAz

Sounds like you finally are getting the red dragon back on the road.

If you need any diagrams for your car, let me know year/model and email address to send it to.

Thanks for all the files very helpfull, just got heads and parts back today, but machinist took out all bolts that helped me I dentify front and rear head and where the brackets and everything bolted on, I don't know which exhaust bolt was a bolt that fastens exhaust and had a bracket or something bolted on to it.
I would send pictures but daughter forgot the cable to download pics.
Mario

Originally Posted by grand prix newb

Thanks for all the files very helpfull, just got heads and parts back today, but machinist took out all bolts that helped me I dentify front and rear head and where the brackets and everything bolted on, I don't know which exhaust bolt was a bolt that fastens exhaust and had a bracket or something bolted on to it.
I would send pictures but daughter forgot the cable to download pics.
Mario

Well she's moving right along.

Heads with valve jobs:



Progress ready for intake install:




Got the exhaust almost on:

Originally Posted by FordMan77

Are those the aluminum LIM gaskets? Cause from the pic they look black, like the plastic ones.

Also, don't forget to put a dab of RTV in all four corners of the end seals for the LIM to block gaskets. I put some under the gasket, and then on top before seating the LIM. Never leaked again.

shoot I didn't put any on top just across the bottom, suppose I better do that now, dam I wish you caught me last night, been fastened since with thread lock, Thanks a lot though probbobly saved a big head ache down the road, rather pop of and give it a good rtv hit now then have to tare everything apart later, and yes sir they are the plastic gaskets (dam another thing I forgot about).

I will switch to alum ones later, right now I got a misfire in #4 cylinder, and car won't engage for 10 - 20 turns of ignition, is there away to disable anti theft system or is that a gm job. coolant level is good, but low coolant light flashes along with ses lght. 700.00 0n heads decked and ign. parts. Frustrating. here is a couple vids, sorry for being dark, daughter got here late with cam.
Thanks

http://s276.photobucket.com/albums/k...t=P1170179.mp4

http://s276.photobucket.com/albums/k...t=P1170180.mp4

Originally Posted by grand prix newb

I will switch to alum ones later, right now I got a misfire in #4 cylinder, and car won't engage for 10 - 20 turns of ignition, is there away to disable anti theft system or is that a gm job. coolant level is good, but low coolant light flashes along with ses lght. 700.00 0n heads decked and ign. parts. Frustrating. here is a couple vids, sorry for being dark, daughter got here late with cam.
Thanks
97 GP SE :: P1170179.mp4 video by mariog207_2008 - Photobucket

97 GP SE :: P1170180.mp4 video by mariog207_2008 - Photobucket

Fixed I found the new little gasket that comes with the coils, I lost 1 so just took one out of my other coils didn't work, put the new one in and cool ses light isn't flashing anymore,still on but not flashing. start driving get 10 feet awqay and ses goes out. hesitates here and there.

Still have to turn key a bunch of times before engine will turn over

low coolant light on sometimes flashing,coolant level is good . Sensor? is that below the radiater cap?

Originally Posted by FordMan77

When turning the key a bunch of times before it starts, does everything else in the car stay powered? I would check all your calbes going to the starter. Make sure they're all tight. Also check your cables at the battery. If that all looks good then may be the ignition switch.

Yes, the sensor is below the cap and upper trans. line. Should have a square back on it. Might just be covered in dex crud. Pull it and clean it up then reinstall and see what you get.

Also, it is known that these motors can be hard to bleed all the air from the cooling system, so even if it appears full, it may be low when being circulated via the waterpump. If cleaning the coolant level sensor doesn't help try bleeding the cooling system again, and then again, lol...

The hesitation/miss could just be old plugs/wires. Are they new as well?

I never thought of it being low while circulating, I will clean cs and hope it works, hope the bat doesn't have to be unpluged to get it out,
all accessories do come on when trying to start car, it only was hard this morning, other 3 or 4 time it stared right up, hesitation seems to be disappearing, they are new plugs and wires, coils. well 2 coils are new. the bat cable's looked bad/corrosion inside boots, cleaned them, will check starter connections tomorrow.
Thanks

Its the switch, if I tap on it It will start, I will take the switch apart this weekend and clean all the contact parts, I paid $89.00 for a new one, but took it back once I seen they can be dissembled and fixed.

Originally Posted by grand prix newb

Its the switch, if I tap on it It will start, I will take the switch apart this weekend and clean all the contact parts, I paid $89.00 for a new one, but took it back once I seen they can be dissembled and fixed.

ok new switch, power steering pump, everything seems to be going good, except my trip computer I have to drive about 35 miles on freeway b4 it will say 31-32 mpg, does it really take that long to get that milage. power doesn't seem as strong as it was b4 head work, still got good power just seems like it doesn't get up as fast as it did b4, I didn't re test compression after head work, so I will start there. OH may be a vac leak somewhere also, i notice engine shakes a little at idle sometimes.

Originally Posted by FordMan77

That vac leak could be the cause of your low power. Get that fixed and see what you get. Also may want to clean the MAF and then reset the ECU (disconnect the battery for 30 min or so). Then take it for a drive to let it relearn everything.

Thanks I did replace maf sensor last month. 137.00 +80.00 core charge, maf cleaner worked for a bit.
I may have only had battery disconected for 15-20 minutes, I will disconect tonight, no at work today and set for while.
I have to got to a dealer and get this T/hose set up and hope that is the vac leak.

also need the fuel sending unit cause my gauge always jumps to full when it is low.
Thanks again bud

Originally Posted by FordMan77

If you suspect those hoses to be a vac leak give em a spray with some carb cleaner while idling and see if you notice the engine change tone. Not sure I suggested that or not yet.

Track down any vac leaks before you jump into the compression test. From what I have read it really doesn't sound like you are low on any cylinders. With those MPG's on the highway I would think it'd be lower with a compression leak. But I've been wrong before.

When I spray hoses,intake,tb,injectors, w/carb cleaner no change in tone. doesn't do it all the time but sometimes at stop light engine will vibrate car a little like there's a vac leak, thats why I suspect a vac leak. I sprayed every vac hose connection(nothing). i did reset computer, left bat unpluged 40 minutes or so last night see if power is better after 35 40 miles put on.

Originally Posted by grand prix newb

When I spray hoses,intake,tb,injectors, w/carb cleaner no change in tone. doesn't do it all the time but sometimes at stop light engine will vibrate car a little like there's a vac leak, thats why I suspect a vac leak. I sprayed every vac hose connection(nothing). i did reset computer, left bat unpluged 40 minutes or so last night see if power is better after 35 40 miles put on.

ok leaving the bat unhooked for the half hour did the trick, power is greater then b4, just got to replace t and hope that will fix vac leak now. 135000 miles maybe the engine miss is tc related.