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The original circuit is fed directly from the ignition switch to the fuse DIC/HVAC fuse. It is located in the fuse panel to the right of the glove box.
Did you follow the diagnostic check to see if there was 12V at the fuse block? If you have constant 12V there, the problem is not caused by the ignition switch.
If you have 12V at the fuse block and the fuse is not blown, you'll be looking for an open 12V feed from the fuse block.
To all with this same problem....save your money, it wasn't the ignition switch harness.
The fix to this was nothing short of a bad wire found in the wire bundle plug connection at the firewall under the hood.
Sorry to hear you spent time/money on the switch when you didn't need it.
But in my case (and many others) the switch was the culprit...
On the bright side, your new switch should be good for another 100,000 miles!
I made a similar thread about this issue but didn't get may hits. My hvac and DIC would shut off when i turned the fan switch from 1-4, odly enough had level 5 lol. I'll be doing this as soon as the rain stops (winters coming and this was a bit*h last winter)
Can I use an ignition switch from a junker? or do I have to buy a new one?
No problem jmt, all is good. The car had an aftermarket automatic car starting kit installed that I wanted to get rid of anyway. This kit tapped right into that very same harness, so replacing it was a good thing...no more open connectors to worry about.Quote:
Originally Posted by jmt455
As it turns out, that corrorded wire also effected the keybob door lock. I'm guessing they all shared the same ground.
NAPA had this hardness for $120 and three hours of work....an old one may not last very long.Quote:
Originally Posted by Colossus
I can't get that link to work for the bypass. Does anyone have that info, or a different link?
I am having same issue. My DIC goes black, as well as my climate controls. Heated seats work, just those two pieces go out. Then they randomly come back on. I'm hoping this info will help me out.
Link appears to be dead, but here is a link to the pdf file for the bypass mod:
http://www.grandprixforums.net/attachments/how-write-ups-tech-tips/275d1206682225-plug-n-play-ignition-bypass-mod-bypasspnp.pdf
This is an attachment you can download.
You can find this in the "How-To" section.
Thanks jmt. I'm hoping this might work.
Can anyone tell me the location of the relay though? i realize this is an old thread...Quote:
Originally Posted by jmt455
i'm experiencing the same issue after troubleshooting a bad blend door actuator. i have been inside the console quite a bit lately fiddling around and then things randomly started, so not sure if it is a coincidence or not.
when i first turn on the car (with blower set to OFF), and i turn the blower to 1, the power to the HVAC goes out (no fan) and the DIC loses power as well. sometimes it will come on a few seconds later but usually ill cycle the blower up to 5 (max) and back down and suddenly power will be restored.
i AM hearing some kind of "clicking" from the gauges or under the dash; sounds almost as if a relay is switching on/off.
does anyone have any idea if there is a relay associated with any of this? i dont lose power to anything else that i'm aware of.
today i will take out my fuses and clean all of the contacts and see if that helps at all.
can you provide any information on the bad wire you found? location/better description? thank you.Quote:
Originally Posted by Afterburn
The clicking and intermittent HVAC/DIC funstions are exactly what I experienced and my problem was definitely a bad ignition switch.Quote:
Originally Posted by localhost127
did you experience any other issues prior to replacing the ignition switch, or was your issues isolated to HVAC/DIC? i do not have any other obvious electrical issues that i am aware of - just the HVAC/DIC.Quote:
Originally Posted by jmt455
i may be dealing with two separate issues here, and maybe the HVAC/DIC intermittent power issues coincidentally started while i was troubleshooting the actuator. maybe they are not related.
is there any chance the ignition switch could solely impact the passenger side dual actuator (to the point where it "hunts" between hot/cold) ... or would i see more erratic issues from other aspects of the HVAC system if that were the case?
I don't see how the ignition switch would impact only one blend door.
I had a variety of weird electrical issues; DIC would go blank or dim, the blower motor would only work on one speed (not consistently), a clicking sound (like a loud turn signal flasher) under the dash, HUD not functioning, radio display showing gibberish.
right. the DIC/HVAC power loss when engaging the fan/blower motor may be related to ingnition switch. i heard a clicking (like a relay engaging) under the dash when i would turn the fan blower on and power went out to HVAC/DIC ... then after a few more seconds (or generally when i would turn the fan blower to higher setting), the power would kick back on.
once the fan is on it would never shut off like that again - it was usually a one-time deal when i first started the car (with blower off) and first engaged the fan.
it's likely that is a separate issue than the door actuator issue.
im in SE michigan as well; anyone on the forum recommended to replace ignition switch? (this is not something im comfortable doing myself).
I'm having this issue now. Will try the fuse then the relay bypass. Thanks for this info !!!
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