Thread: Diagnosing lifter tick: Sticky? Collaped? What?

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  1. #1 Diagnosing lifter tick: Sticky? Collaped? What? 
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    Are there any guidelines for determining whether "lifter tick" is because of "sticky lifters" or an actual failure of the part?

    Sunday morning when I started my '01 GTP, it made a lifter tick that's easily audible inside the car, with the hood down. This is the first time it's done that, and it happened abruptly. At least I've not heard it getting progressively worse, and I don't usually play the radio or turn up the AC fan when I start the car, so I think I would have noticed.

    It's a sharp tap sound from under the valve cover on the front bank, cylinder closest to the passenger side. (Cylinder 1.) Does not sound dull or coming from lower down so I doubt it's piston slap.

    The sound goes away after the engine is warmed up. Could that mean it's just sticky? Or can failing lifters sound fine (for a while) when warmed up?

    The car mostly sat undriven from early December until a little over a week ago. Conventional oil. It had an oil change within a few hundred miles of being parked. Oil still looks good and level is fine. Can relatively new, clean conventional oil start "gumming up" after sitting for several months?

    It ran fine with no lifter noise when I started it after storage, and for the past week as I've been driving it daily, until Sunday. Now if happens every time the car sits for several hours. (In the morning and after work.)

    Is it worth trying to unstick the lifter with the MMO/ATF/Seafoam in the oil technique? Or is that a bad idea? Lots of people swear by it but others say any additives like that can be dangerous.
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  2. #2 Re: Diagnosing lifter tick: Sticky? Collaped? What? 
    Killa Bee Scottydoggs's Avatar
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    you got a lifter thats bleeding off its pressure. gm says as long as it stops in a minute or so its fine.

    my old engine would do this right about 3,000 miles after its last oil change. so i started to run a mix of 40 and 30 weight oil (3 of 40 and 2 of 30) and it hardly ever did it again.

    you could run 40 weight too. like 10 w40.

    if you used 5w30 thats more of a winter oil, so once its hot its thinner. and its been nice and hot out here lately in the NE.

    98 Buick Regal GS, F body brakes, Caddy STS wheels, tinted tails L36 bottom end, lightly ported heads, 1.95 roller rockers, headers, gen 5 N* 3.0 pulley, FSIC, 42 lb injectors, a BrandonHall rebuilt trans, DHP tuned and AEM water/Meth injection https://goo.gl/gpV5kW
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  3. #3 Re: Diagnosing lifter tick: Sticky? Collaped? What? 
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    The problem seems to have been solved.

    The weekend I posted this, I drained a quart of oil and replaced it with marvel mystery oil. Then I took it for about a 30 mile drive on the highway, transmission in 3 to keep rpm about 2700-3000. Then I parked it until the next day.

    Next day, it didn't tick for quite as long when started. I drove it daily, and it seemed to get progressively better.

    A week later, after about 150 miles driving with the MMO, I changed to oil to Mobil 1 High-Mileage 10w30. Daily drove it another week. Ticking completely stopped.

    Last weekend, I parked it and let it sit for the week. I just started it up, and no ticking at all.
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  4. #4 Re: Diagnosing lifter tick: Sticky? Collaped? What? 
    GTX Level Member cheatah faheatah's Avatar
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    Good tip ! Thanks.
    For the record : I am NOT a naked meth-head who shoves rocks up my butt.
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  5. #5 Re: Diagnosing lifter tick: Sticky? Collaped? What? 
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    Glad it went away for you. Might have to try this or thicker oil on the tahoe, it has a decent lifter tick when cold as well.
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