So getting grief from other forums to a degree,,,,But found 2 local 3800/W fans,,,,

[MonzaRacer]

So after looking around before I saw ZZP, Intense etc listing $800+ forged pistons$600-$700 for rods.
So I went looking for something to make beefing up bottom end bit cheaper and still make thing stronger.
Well keep getting the grief of "oh the engine can make 600 hp and not sweat it" and "Oh just throw a cheap JY engine in and drive it".
Well I am an old school hot rodder. Been building engines for fun, driving , racing and work for years. And when people tell me to just do something and I see issues with it I tend to NOT like people being a bit rude.
Dont get me wrong, I probably will install a JY engine or patch original possibly.
I made a great deal on an SC intake, one of those ZZP sells that has injector bungs installed to allow me to install a Gen V blower but in NA heads. I also picked up a DHP tuner to dial things in.
My plans are to install headers too and work on parts of exhaust.
I have had ,worked on and swapped/sold engines in last couple months since getting car. I still need a short block for my car.
So anyway I found couple of locals, father and son team. Dad has done business with me before. Boy got grannys GTP, 04, chipped pistons too.
So dad was in shop talking to me as I worked on his truck. Boy wants grannys car for school in couple years. Dad started picking up old cars with engines and rusty bodies. Well daddy got a GTP or two and also picked up couple of sandrails and dad now wants to install GTP engine in one.
So dad being drag racer wants to rebuild boys engine with better parts of course. And beef up rails engine. So asked me if I would help.
After giving him bad news about $1500+ for rods and pistons asked if I could find or get something cheaper but still forged.
Well for STD I found 5.3LS 4 in stroker pistons will fit but are still over $600. I figured out a couple of stroker pistons for 2300 Fords will work as a 010 and 020 piston so other than clearancing for valve lift I had pistons. Figured someone listed rods but no, guess the current 3800 vendors have proprietary source.
Well figured out a narrowed 4.3L rod works with said pistons and it will allow for decking of blocks too.
So after figuring out a better deal on pistons and rods took a bit to find rings but found them.
Figure stock rods, good bolts and some machine work all is good. Eagles for 4.3L if better rods are needed. Rings are Hastings.
I know everyone says trans is weak so beefing engine up is waste but I dont know.
Darrel, the dad wants to try these parts, he is always up for doing things different. Heck he was track champion on 307 with cam, intake carb and slapper bars and posi and used slicks one year.
So I also told him about 4T80E swaps, and how we might be able to finagle something for his rail. I am hoping I can scrounge solid short block for my GP through all this.
Also found I can get Gen V blower off LKQonline too. Cheap too.
Just got to figure out rest of the accessories I will need like balancer, tensioner, etc.
They even got lucky at a car show with their old drag car and got gift cert from Comp so want to get custom ground cam for the engines(I know but hey its their cash).
I love hot rodding cause its fun to mix and match. And who would have thought someone adapting a scavenging pump off a 2 stroke diesel mounted on old fabricated intakes would be the great great granddaddy of the blower on our cars!
I saw a local guy with a car similar to the one my mom gave me, mine is 94 Olds 98 Regency, with a freaking old a$$ Jimmy blower on it sticking out of the hood! Im amazed, but figure its one of the tiny Jimmy blowers that used to run around this area.
So when parts come in Ill post up what we got, what we are doing and we might possibly have one or both on the dyno too.
If they fail, blow up or dont run right so be it but hey someone had to start building parts before. Now that the cars are getting old maybe we can switch from modding new cars to modding old cars. Since these are now old cars.

[SaukRapids]

It's late. Are you talking about a stroker? Because after all that, it sounds like you're talking about a stroker. There used to be kits available in the US. I'll let you research on why it's "used to."

The aussies do all kinds of stuff with these. Based on that, my intuition didn't lead me wrong. They have a parts list PDF. Maybe you can find a cross reference and source stateside.

https://www.comeracing.com/catalog/k...42-stroker-kit

Good luck with it.

[MonzaRacer]

No just better priced forged pistons with matching rods. I did find out my crank grinder says if I buy 5 they can get me Series2/3 specific cranks in ctroker configuration. BUT due to block rod/stroke ratio sucks. pin gets up into ring pack, etc. They did say with those cranks SBC rods blanks would work as the journals could go smaller due to being forged vs cast stock.
did have guy show me a deck plate, it has orings and such, you install it, then install longer head studs. THEN press in longer sleeves and rebore it and allows longer rods to be used, then they make some sort of spacer to go between head and intake so S2/3 intake and such still bolt up.
The thing is people keep saying to forget it as the stock engine can handle the abuse YET I keep seeing and hearing of them breaking. IF all this work functions nad performs Ill try to post up pic and part numbers used. i know trans issues limit things but now I have people asking for something I was looking into. I had moved passed that and into swapping my car to SC.
now I am just doing work for someone else.

[l67ss]

I'd never run a factory non sleeved engine with all 6 sleeved....

[fst]

most break because of lack of tuning and the motor gets a lot of detonation and chip a piston (typically #5 or #3). theres been debates on durability between the L67 and L32 bottomend where the latter the bottomend is coated (pistons?). other factors being some people remove the stock heads and would do either aftermarket port jobs or remove them to clean them and don't clean the deck/surface well enough and end up with HG leaks due to improper misuse. A lot of ppl typically don't remove the heads at all (myself included) unless necessary ie-aftermarket heads.

in my experience I ran a spare 120k mile longblock and slapped on a zzp z7 turbo kit (with built trans) and ran it hard for a while. it was north of under 400whp fwiw. it blew #5 only because of my incompetence and ran super lean at part throttle when I didn't have my alky/meth injection on one day in lieu of adequate fueling.

my original motor had 1.9rockers then removed after 15k miles and installed a VS cam and ran another 50k miles. the motor (~130k miles) ran strong after I parted ways with it.

what I'm getting at is, the motor is durable to handle gobs of power....long as it's tuned well and KR-free at high hp levels. you can run 8-10 degrees of KR on stock SC pulley and it'll be fine (they get that amount anyways from the factory).

[Turbocharged400sbc]

Si > sii

[fst]

you mean series 2 > series 3

[Turbocharged400sbc]

Tall deck SI > short deck SII/SIII

[MonzaRacer]

Oh I relating what one Buick guy showed me, a sold cast spacer, kind of like thick head gasket but like 1/2-1 thicker sealed to block deck, has locating dowels too. The used this on short deck block when casting numbers are needed. Not sure who use SII,SIII with this mod. After install block gets bored, sleeved , finish bore/hone and sleeves pressed in. Seems like more work that an SI/GN block might negate!
So the father/son pair have 4 pistons 3 sets of rings and 3 sets of reman4.3 rods waiting on narrowing, and ARP bolts. And 2 more 4 piston sets are coming as they finish machining then. Obviously stroker pistons may not ALL be off shelf but maker is fairly quick. One block is nearly done, waiting on decking and is already honed 010 over. Never figured they would have some parts this quick. As soon as couple rods get narrowed we can use my undersize wrist pin to temp assemble Combi and run some clearance checks for valves, piston deck height etc.