Temperature gauge always on red . 260

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Originally Posted by Scottydoggs

most of the time your fine, open the bleeder a top the t stat housing car running and hot and make sure its bled properly of air, if you open it and coolant streams out your good to go.

if it just spits bubbles leave it open till a stream comes out.

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I did that the other day. And the first time it was spitting bubbles and second just a stream. Well i already picked up the oem temperature sensor and I will install it tomorrow morning. What is the proper way of bleeding the cooling system because I'm removing the thermostat housing to reach it better. So I will be topping it off again for the loss of any antifreeze.

Just let it run until hot and add coolant to the radiator as it sucks it down. And do the bleeder on top of the tstat too.

tankiing the t stat housing off is not helping you in any way to change the temp sensor. but if you feel the need to take it off. once done with the temp sensor, fill the engine with new coolant via the hole for the t stat. and fill the rad. now you know its all full.

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Originally Posted by Swiggles

Just let it run until hot and add coolant to the radiator as it sucks it down. And do the bleeder on top of the tstat too.

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So when I'm adding to the radiator do I leave the bleeder open?

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Originally Posted by Scottydoggs

tankiing the t stat housing off is not helping you in any way to change the temp sensor. but if you feel the need to take it off. once done with the temp sensor, fill the engine with new coolant via the hole for the t stat. and fill the rad. now you know its all full.

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It's a real tight squeeze with the thermostat housing and hose. How do you suggest I do it then?

from the side is a clear shot to it.

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Originally Posted by Scottydoggs

from the side is a clear shot to it.

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But there is no clearance to turn the ratchet wrench

Yes you have the bleeder open when you fill the radiator but you don't have to. I do the bleeder after filling the radiator, and the motor is close to operating temp.

If you still have the stock air filter box then take that out and you'll have more room.

Also use an open end wrench using the closed side you'll be able to do it. It might be small turns but it's not worst thing on these motors. Try changing the rear knock sensor and you'll appreciate all the room you have for the temp sensor lol

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Originally Posted by Swiggles

Yes you have the bleeder open when you fill the radiator but you don't have to. I do the bleeder after filling the radiator, and the motor is close to operating temp.

If you still have the stock air filter box then take that out and you'll have more room.

Also use an open end wrench using the closed side you'll be able to do it. It might be small turns but it's not worst thing on these motors. Try changing the rear knock sensor and you'll appreciate all the room you have for the temp sensor lol

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Should the sensor be tightening all the way in?

No you still see some threads. It should have a sealant on it already. Just tighten until it's tight.

The problem is fixed!!! Thanks guys I really appreciate it!! May God bless yall!!

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Originally Posted by Scottydoggs

from the side is a clear shot to it.

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It's still small world I just got a tune from zack howard. I didn't knew about his bad reputation. I just got done reading the abnormal amount of kr post

good lord, another FB victim.

Ahh! ZTune! Kill it with fire! KILL IT!

Poor Bastard...

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Originally Posted by Scottydoggs

good lord, another FB victim.

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I already switched back to my stock pcm

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Originally Posted by ADrugDealer

Ahh! ZTune! Kill it with fire! KILL IT!

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LOL thats good stuff