Thread: It's not the blend door

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  1. #1 It's not the blend door 
    GTX Level Member SomeDudeAtHome's Avatar
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    So my AC blows warmer on the drivers side than the passenger side. It's not hot like the heaters on but the passenger side is COLD and the drivers side is only cooler than the air outside. I changed the blend door yesterday (what a pain in the ass) and it didn't fix the problem. So what else could it be? A vac leak? A few years ago and I had the compressor repaired because it was leaking so it shouldn't be that. I don't know the inner workings of the system enough to have any real guesses.
    Black 98 GT bought in summer of 2009 w/28K miles- GTX Rims, Retrofit headlights, tinted tails, 20% tint all around, KYB Excel-G's, WBS Lowering Springs, 33mm Dorman front sway bar, 22mm Addco rear sway bar, BMR trailing arms, BMR STBs front and rear, ZZP control arms, Poly motor mounts, ZZP CAI, Thrasher shift kit
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  2. #2 Re: It's not the blend door 
    Killa Bee Scottydoggs's Avatar
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    your low on freon, fill er up

    98 Buick Regal GS, F body brakes, Caddy STS wheels, tinted tails L36 bottom end, lightly ported heads, 1.95 roller rockers, headers, gen 5 N* 3.0 pulley, FSIC, 42 lb injectors, a BrandonHall rebuilt trans, DHP tuned and AEM water/Meth injection https://goo.gl/gpV5kW
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  3. #3 Re: It's not the blend door 
    Turbo is the way to go. Fivefingerdeathpunch's Avatar
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    Check the high and low pressures on the system.

    On some cars if the R134a level is low only the passenger side will blow cold. I know for sure the bonnevilles are this way.

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  4. #4 Re: It's not the blend door 
    I break things. WarStryker13's Avatar
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    Could just be clogged fins on the core... Buddy had something like that but with his heater, took a can of air to the heater core and blew all the crap out the other side.

    04 GP GT2: Handling upgrades, go-slow parts, and an attitude. Totaled.
    87 Dodge Ram 50:​ Junkyard rescue, resurrection in progress.
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  5. #5 Re: It's not the blend door 
    GTX Level Member SomeDudeAtHome's Avatar
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    I'll try the freon. I don't think anything is clogged because the heat worked fine this past winter. Could someone explain how to check and refill the freon on these cars? Or post a link to a write up?
    Black 98 GT bought in summer of 2009 w/28K miles- GTX Rims, Retrofit headlights, tinted tails, 20% tint all around, KYB Excel-G's, WBS Lowering Springs, 33mm Dorman front sway bar, 22mm Addco rear sway bar, BMR trailing arms, BMR STBs front and rear, ZZP control arms, Poly motor mounts, ZZP CAI, Thrasher shift kit
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  6. #6 Re: It's not the blend door 
    Killa Bee Scottydoggs's Avatar
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    buy one of them refill cans with a gauge, read the can.

    98 Buick Regal GS, F body brakes, Caddy STS wheels, tinted tails L36 bottom end, lightly ported heads, 1.95 roller rockers, headers, gen 5 N* 3.0 pulley, FSIC, 42 lb injectors, a BrandonHall rebuilt trans, DHP tuned and AEM water/Meth injection https://goo.gl/gpV5kW
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  7. #7 Re: It's not the blend door 
    Turbo is the way to go. Fivefingerdeathpunch's Avatar
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    I just use the hose and buy the cheap little 12oz cans and fill through the low side port.

    The cans with a gauge are kind of pointless because they only tell you low side pressure and really the high side pressure is more important. You'd have to shove alot of freon in the system to max out the low side and do damage.

    Adding 8-12oz should be enough to tell you if it works or not. You can keep the little can on the hose if you don't use it all, just spin the needle down untill it bottoms out.

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  8. #8 Re: It's not the blend door 
    GTX Level Member SomeDudeAtHome's Avatar
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    Where is the high pressure port? I've found images of the low online but can't find a definitive answer for the high. Near the alternator? And do I have to worry about refilling the high as well or just the low?
    Black 98 GT bought in summer of 2009 w/28K miles- GTX Rims, Retrofit headlights, tinted tails, 20% tint all around, KYB Excel-G's, WBS Lowering Springs, 33mm Dorman front sway bar, 22mm Addco rear sway bar, BMR trailing arms, BMR STBs front and rear, ZZP control arms, Poly motor mounts, ZZP CAI, Thrasher shift kit
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  9. #9 Re: It's not the blend door 
    Turbo is the way to go. Fivefingerdeathpunch's Avatar
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    You never fill on the high side.


    One port should be on the firewall and the other is like behind the airbox or close to there.

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  10. #10 Re: It's not the blend door 
    GTX Level Member SomeDudeAtHome's Avatar
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    The one on the firewall is the low right? Other must be high?
    Black 98 GT bought in summer of 2009 w/28K miles- GTX Rims, Retrofit headlights, tinted tails, 20% tint all around, KYB Excel-G's, WBS Lowering Springs, 33mm Dorman front sway bar, 22mm Addco rear sway bar, BMR trailing arms, BMR STBs front and rear, ZZP control arms, Poly motor mounts, ZZP CAI, Thrasher shift kit
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  11. #11 Re: It's not the blend door 
    GrandPrix Junkie CrazyGuy03's Avatar
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    If the weather holds up , I'm local and have the tools you need
    2003 Buick Regal GSX lots of mods - click here to see latest build - http://www.grandprixforums.net/threa...ld-for-the-gsx

    *For Reference - Does not have a Zack Howard Cam - It's an Intense Stage 3 - Thank You*
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  12. #12 Re: It's not the blend door 
    GrandPrix Junkie idrivejunk's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by SomeDudeAtHome View Post
    The one on the firewall is the low right? Other must be high?

    Small one center of firewall is low. Just hook on a large can of A/C Pro w/gauge and you'll be fixed in a few minutes. Read directions. I know everybody already said all that, I am just supporting it. It's very simple, my 99s need it each year. I'm saying get the big can based on experience and your description.
    All Grand Prix, all the time. 69 Model J, 99 GT & GTP coupes. All junk, haha.
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  13. #13 Re: It's not the blend door 
    GTX Level Member SomeDudeAtHome's Avatar
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    Alright so I bought an 18oz can at autozone and put the whole thing in. It only brought the pressure up to about the middle of the green section of the gauge. Vents seemed to be blowing cooler though. Thanks for the help everyone
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  14. #14 Re: It's not the blend door 
    I break things. WarStryker13's Avatar
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    I'm needing to do this, my A/C is starting to take longer and longer to get cold... Lol

    04 GP GT2: Handling upgrades, go-slow parts, and an attitude. Totaled.
    87 Dodge Ram 50:​ Junkyard rescue, resurrection in progress.
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  15. #15 Re: It's not the blend door 
    GTX Level Member SomeDudeAtHome's Avatar
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    Another question. So if I need to put another can in and may have to do this every summer doesn't that mean it's leaking somewhere? Is it cheap to just keep refilling or should I have it looked at?
    Black 98 GT bought in summer of 2009 w/28K miles- GTX Rims, Retrofit headlights, tinted tails, 20% tint all around, KYB Excel-G's, WBS Lowering Springs, 33mm Dorman front sway bar, 22mm Addco rear sway bar, BMR trailing arms, BMR STBs front and rear, ZZP control arms, Poly motor mounts, ZZP CAI, Thrasher shift kit
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  16. #16 Re: It's not the blend door 
    Killa Bee Scottydoggs's Avatar
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    most of the time if you look over all the lines you'll find a wet oily mess at a connection or where a sensor in in the pipe. find the dirty wet spot, 99% of the time thats your leak.

    they also sell cans with dye in them to find the leak.

    98 Buick Regal GS, F body brakes, Caddy STS wheels, tinted tails L36 bottom end, lightly ported heads, 1.95 roller rockers, headers, gen 5 N* 3.0 pulley, FSIC, 42 lb injectors, a BrandonHall rebuilt trans, DHP tuned and AEM water/Meth injection https://goo.gl/gpV5kW
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  17. #17 Re: It's not the blend door 
    GTX Level Member SomeDudeAtHome's Avatar
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    I'll look them over at some point. Does buying the cans with the leak sealer in it mess up the lines? I noticed pretty much all the bottles said they did that but it seems like using something like that could possibly gunk them up.
    Black 98 GT bought in summer of 2009 w/28K miles- GTX Rims, Retrofit headlights, tinted tails, 20% tint all around, KYB Excel-G's, WBS Lowering Springs, 33mm Dorman front sway bar, 22mm Addco rear sway bar, BMR trailing arms, BMR STBs front and rear, ZZP control arms, Poly motor mounts, ZZP CAI, Thrasher shift kit
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  18. #18 Re: It's not the blend door 
    GTP Level Member nik12937's Avatar
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    Before I had access to an A/C machine I tried those leak-stop cans a few times, they never managed to seal anything. I'd just stick with the straight R-134a. I can stand by the A/C dye though, that with a cheap UV light and some tinted glasses are what I use to find leaks.
    For thine is the Cam, The Piston, and The Rod, Forever and ever (or until they break). Amen.
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  19. #19 Re: It's not the blend door 
    GTX Level Member SomeDudeAtHome's Avatar
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    Depending on how long this seems to last I might try the UV stuff. I'm hoping it gets me through this summer. Might go out and by another can since this one didn't get me to the top of the green section on the gauge.
    Black 98 GT bought in summer of 2009 w/28K miles- GTX Rims, Retrofit headlights, tinted tails, 20% tint all around, KYB Excel-G's, WBS Lowering Springs, 33mm Dorman front sway bar, 22mm Addco rear sway bar, BMR trailing arms, BMR STBs front and rear, ZZP control arms, Poly motor mounts, ZZP CAI, Thrasher shift kit
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  20. #20 Re: It's not the blend door 
    GrandPrix Junkie CrazyGuy03's Avatar
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    I'd charge it with nitro and listen for the hiss. Replaced the faulty part / almost always the condenser / and pull a vacuum then recharge it

    however you find the leak - just find it. It's stupid to keep re filling it
    2003 Buick Regal GSX lots of mods - click here to see latest build - http://www.grandprixforums.net/threa...ld-for-the-gsx

    *For Reference - Does not have a Zack Howard Cam - It's an Intense Stage 3 - Thank You*
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