Crank No Start Issue

[dtrombley]

So,

I'm pretty lost on this issue and I need some ideas. After my rebuild (and fixing all the stupid mistakes I made), my car would crank, fire up and run for somewhere around 3 seconds. When I would rev it to about 3 or 4k, it would run no problem. If I used HP Tuners to manually kick the fuel pump into "high", it would stay running for as long as I wanted, but it would backfire quite a bit.

Sounds like the fuel pump resistor right? I don't think so though. I used a racetronix fuel pump hotwire kit, with the walbro pump. After seeing the above symptoms, I bent pin 85 out on the fuel pump speed control relay. No change. I checked the ground for the hotwire kit and that's all good too.

After trying different things for a while, then starting it, it would stall; for a few times. Then it started flooding, to where if i pulled the fuel pump relay it would run by itself for 3 seconds and die.

However, now, it won't fire at all. It'll crank and crank and crank, but it won't fire. I still have 50 psi at the fuel rail, and I've got spark on every terminal from the coil packs. Plug wires have been triple checked, etc. The PCM is registering air going into the cylinders too.


What am I missing?

Mod list:
VS Cam
N* Throttle Body
FS intercooler
Pace Setter Headers (no cat, and the catback hasn't been put together yet)
AEM Wideband (not hooked into HP Tuners yet)
Yella Terra 1.6 rockers
Custom head work done by a reputable performance shop (stock size valves though)
42.5# injectors
Walbro fuel pump
Racetronix fuel pump hotwire
180 degreee tstat
AL104 plugs
EGR removed
PCM had a base tune for all the above mods done by Reptile, planned on tweaking/getting it tweaked once the car was actually running.

Also, I have a scan from the PCM if you need it.


Any and all help is appreciated.

[dtrombley]

Anyone?

[BoostedPontiac]

When you installed the fuel pump harness, you installed the jumper wire for the relay that plugs in under the passenger side headlight right?

[BoostedPontiac]

Also what's your vacuum like? When I accidentally left some gasket on my supercharger, the car would crank but not start due to a massive vac leak

[BillBoost37]

if it runs and goes way up ... you have a huge vacuum leak. Check brake booster hose

[dtrombley]

No, I didn't install the jumper wire for the resistor, but that's why I bent the pin for the fuel pump speed control relay.

Hmm, is there a way to check vacuum on hptuners? I may have to invest in a vacuum gauge. I will say, when it was running for 3 seconds at a time, it did have a really weird whistle to it. Nothing like sc whine, almost like a dog's squeaky toy if you know what I'm saying. I think you guys might be onto something here!

I'll check into it after doing brakes on the girlfriend's acura tomorrow and let you know what I find out

[dtrombley]

Also, are the brake booster hoses known to fail and leak or just double check connections? I double checked the connections in that hose specifically last time I was out there, but at this point it can't hurt too double check anything again

[buck531]

Massive vacuum leak.

[Fivefingerdeathpunch]

Read this for figuring out vacuum through KPA.

Otherwise a aeroforce scangauge can read "in/hgs" on the screen.

You'll likey only see 17-19in/hgs with that mild cam/head work. A factory car will pull -20in/hgs no problem at idle.

Watch your fuel trims too if the car runs long enough, if they go way positive you have a vacuum leak.

http://www.hptuners.com/forum/showth...reading+vacuum

[BoostedPontiac]

If it's a whistle it's definitely a vac leak. Change the supercharger gasket and be sure to scrape off all old gasket material

[dtrombley]

Alright vacuum leak it is then. I picked up a combo vacuum/fuel pressure gauge from O'Reilly's since it was cheap - $25 for bosch brand. I'll have to read through that link anyways though, as it seems like good info to know.

Unfortunately, no time yesterday to look into it, took me longer than I would've liked to get out there and by the time I finished brakes on the acura - which went smooth as hell (gotta love working on a car from colorado), I had to head back and grab dinner with the girlfriend.

I've always chased down vacuum leaks with either the carb cleaner trick or the smoke trick... But I've never had to do it on a non running car. Wonder if smoke will work when its not running? Oh well, I've got an exam tomorrow and a midterm Tuesday. I won't have time until thursday, so I guess don't expect an update until late Thursday night or Friday

[dtrombley]

Alright, definitely a major vacuum leak. Leaking right out in between the supercharger and the intercooler core. I bought the core in an intercooler kit used for jayroca, and there were some concerns when I got it because it wasn't flat. We thought we filed it down flat enough, but apparently not. Anyways, after pulling it off, I discovered that it leaked coolant.

So my recommendation to anyone looking to buy used parts, DON'T BUY FROM JAYROCA. As i said earlier I bought the intercooler kit from him, and it was full of headaches. it took 4 weeks, and me having to file a dispute with paypal for him to actually ship the parts. When I finally got the parts, the hoses were split at the ends and dryrotted, the pump was shot (with some obvious signs of tampering - sloppy rtv job, backwards wires, and cracked brushes inside), and now I've come to find out the core I got from him was junk too. That makes 3 out of 4 parts, complete and utter junk. I guess I'm just glad the intercooler core didn't seal so that way I didn't dump a bunch of coolant in the motor while running.

[Fivefingerdeathpunch]

I think he was banned for that very reason, selling junk parts and not responding to anyone.

[Scottydoggs]

you cant blame the ic core for the coolant leak, your ports should be sealed off.


id take a straight edge to it with a light behind it and look for light to break under the straight edge. if you see light you know you got a bend.

if its all fairly tight looking, id re install with grey rtv. drill and tap and plug the two coolant ports, then rtv them when you lay the core on the lim.

[dtrombley]

Huh, didn't know he was banned. Well good thing, that way he can't rip anyone else off.

The coolant ports are sealed off, with jb weld. Yea that's what we did before with the straight edge, we got it a little flatter, then thought it would be alright with a bunch of rtv to seal it up (we used orange/red? though). It was definitely leaking from the core, the back of it was wet and coolant puddled in between the valve cover and intake manifold on the back of the motor... I filled the core and the pump was running while trouble shooting, and when I took the core off it was almost empty..