Originally Posted by Impala131
this guy dont need any extra bolts removed at this time, if you cant tell yet lol that pump can sit till it leaks. if its next week so be it. let him learn one job at a time.
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07-24-2015
this guy dont need any extra bolts removed at this time, if you cant tell yet lol that pump can sit till it leaks. if its next week so be it. let him learn one job at a time.
07-24-2015
I will defer to your wisdom Scotty.... just trying to save the guy some time in the long run since he's already opening the cooling system.
07-24-2015
Thanks for understanding lol.
07-24-2015
seems like a nice enough guy, but clearly hes new to wrenching. so the dont fix whats not broken rule comes into play for him.
just imagine the fight he'd have getting the p/s pump back on.......one thing at a time.
07-24-2015
Yeah, it's hard enough checking the damn P/S fluid. Removing the pump itself seems like an impossible task lol.
07-24-2015
removal is easy lol its getting it back on when its gonna fight. but if the alt bracket is off its much easier to see wtf your doing.
but your leaving that on too remember, you loosen up the 3 bolts a 1/4 inch each so it will let the bracket move just enough to get the rear valve cover off.
07-24-2015
Oh yeah. Anything else than needs to come off for getting the VC off?
07-24-2015
dont think you n/a guys got much covering the rear cover if any thing.
the alt bracket just touches the cover, take a peek at it, its not a big deal.
07-24-2015
Ok. I think the engine cover mount curls up over the VC too so I think that has to come out too.
07-24-2015
whats a engine cover? i never owned one...
that thing should be the least of your worries lol
07-24-2015
I don't have one either, but there's a tab on the back of the cover that slides in a bracket in the back, which curls over the VC.
07-24-2015
not sure how it fastens on there. i never owned on and im sc'ed.
07-25-2015
In your "procedure" you didn't put down a dab of RTV before the LIM gaskets. Do a dab before and a dab after in each corner.
Scott.. the o-rings to replace the coolant elbow ones are in the LIM kit. However.. most first timers are going to bust an elbow taking them out. Even if they are metal, especially if they were rtv'd in.
I didn't read closely.. make sure you use pipe sealant on the LIM bolts.
On the UIM bolts... use 89 inch lbs. Do not go over and as you torque them ...watch the ear that you are torquing at. If you see it turning white where it attaches to the UIM, stop right there. I've seen people break off those ears.. it's easy enough to do.
Search on my name and "ea sy" without the space. You'll find plenty of info on various things that may be very helpful. Pics included.
07-25-2015
I was just gonna torque the LIM bolts dry with no thread sealant at 14ft lb.
07-25-2015
And I had on there, 4 dabs of RTV without end seals on, and 4 more with end seals on. Are there any other places RTV needs to go?
07-25-2015
use thread sealant on the lim bolts or they leak coolant. clean them first, then new sealant, then tq em down.
the rtv you got it right.
07-28-2015
So then clean the bolts with say Brake Cleaner and then put a dab of thread locker on?
07-28-2015
jesus stop slow down read. clean em with a wire brush, you'll see why, or get as much of the old crap off the threads. then use thread sealant, same stuff plumbers use to seal pipe threads.
this little jar costs like 6 bucks or so, over the last 5 years its 1/2 gone now, maybe more. you have water pump bolts that need this sealant too. along with a few other in the timing cover.
07-28-2015
Yeah. Wire wheel the bolts to get the sealant off and you can clean em with brake cleaner too
i used
http://m.advanceautoparts.com/mt/sho...ontent=general
but yeah it's good to 450 and it was left over from my head studs. So I doubt you will need a high temp rating like that
07-28-2015
Will any thread sealant do or does it have to be a specific kind?
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