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seems like a nice enough guy, but clearly hes new to wrenching. so the dont fix whats not broken rule comes into play for him.
just imagine the fight he'd have getting the p/s pump back on.......one thing at a time.
removal is easy lol its getting it back on when its gonna fight. but if the alt bracket is off its much easier to see wtf your doing.
but your leaving that on too remember, you loosen up the 3 bolts a 1/4 inch each so it will let the bracket move just enough to get the rear valve cover off.
In your "procedure" you didn't put down a dab of RTV before the LIM gaskets. Do a dab before and a dab after in each corner.
Scott.. the o-rings to replace the coolant elbow ones are in the LIM kit. However.. most first timers are going to bust an elbow taking them out. Even if they are metal, especially if they were rtv'd in.
I didn't read closely.. make sure you use pipe sealant on the LIM bolts.
On the UIM bolts... use 89 inch lbs. Do not go over and as you torque them ...watch the ear that you are torquing at. If you see it turning white where it attaches to the UIM, stop right there. I've seen people break off those ears.. it's easy enough to do.
Search on my name and "ea sy" without the space. You'll find plenty of info on various things that may be very helpful. Pics included.
jesus stop slow down read. clean em with a wire brush, you'll see why, or get as much of the old crap off the threads. then use thread sealant, same stuff plumbers use to seal pipe threads.
this little jar costs like 6 bucks or so, over the last 5 years its 1/2 gone now, maybe more. you have water pump bolts that need this sealant too. along with a few other in the timing cover.
Yeah. Wire wheel the bolts to get the sealant off and you can clean em with brake cleaner too
i used
http://m.advanceautoparts.com/mt/sho...ontent=general
but yeah it's good to 450 and it was left over from my head studs. So I doubt you will need a high temp rating like that
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