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Lemme know when you've done the tests I suggested and the results.
Engine should start on nearly any pcm as long as it's not pissy about security. I'd honestly start off with my suggestions.. I'm a bit biased about getting to the root of the issue though.
On update, car almost started by spraying carb Cleaner into the throttle body
You aren't getting fuel due to the pissed off connection issue.
Pull the connectors off teh pcm and look for any wiring that is pulled back from moving the harness around during the swap. Also ensure the ICM is properly connected and that no pins pushed backward, then check the connector right by the FPR to ensure no wires pushed back out.
Those are the three points where wiring could be an issue, unless someone beat the engine harness up while swapping motors.
Ok tried the bulb trick. It lit up then once the car started cranking it went away and came back and started to dim while the car was cranking.
Man your quick lol
Faster than you think
http://i1105.photobucket.com/albums/...s/IMAG2593.jpg
Ok I found this. Any idea what was right here?
Also where's the fpr on the 2004 engine?
Look straight down from there.. You'll see a piece on the aluminum AC line that'll match up to the other half of that.
04.. no fpr. so that connector will be right by the #1 injector. Has like 8 pins in it.
Ok fpr connection is tight, checking the I'm now
Don't just check for tight. Check for pins pushed out. Wiggle the harness where it goes from whereever to the engine.
Uh.. hey... 04. Did he pull the connector at the fuse box to pull the engine? If so.. it's good to check that bolt too
Thanks Bill got it started but now more issues.....
Oil humongous vacuum leak. Like huge. Car is shaking and idling crazy and now the low oil pressure light is on. So what the bejesus is going on Smh
Car also smells like gas when started as well.
Edit again, we have a multiple misfire code, a bad map code and a bad injector pulse code for cylinder 6
Update. Changed plugs so misfiring issue is gone, oil pressure light is still on and car is still stalling and shuddering. What could be going on?
Vacuum leak? Oil leak? Plug wires crossed to wrong cylinders? Bad oil pump?
What is the history of the new engine?
Plug the big hose to the brake booster back in. It's off at one end or the other.
Don't ever ask how I know stuff. I admit to everything
Engine has 50,000 miles from a salvage yard. You don't even want to know how much it costed him
I'll try that bill lol
I'm pretty confident on my suggestion.
What did you find that got it fired up?
Fuel like you suggested lol
I doQuote:
Originally Posted by Bluemagic
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