easy 2 more years
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easy 2 more years
Replaced the drivers window regulator and motor on the 03 GTP. Thats enough for that one for a while. [emoji1696]
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Got my car put back together after the timing cover job by Saturday night, and filled the cooling system Sunday. Everything seemed fine, had stuff to do so I left and came back later that day to see water puddled under it. Eventually found that one of the heater hoses didn't want to seal for whatever reason. Whew. Just took it off, cleaned the metal tube up and reinstalled.
Fast forward to like 11pm Sunday, I had to play musical cars since I leave the earliest for work, and as I'm sitting in the street idling, the low oil pressure light comes on, stop engine. Uhhh that will stress someone out. Just got a ride to work Monday and thought about it all day. Decided the oil pressure switch was the most likely problem, so I had one sent over from O'Reilly's at work. I actually have an oil pressure gauge, so I hooked that up and had great oil pressure. It was showing about 62 cold at high idle, and hot at low idle it was about 45. I would like to test the accuracy of the gauge being it goes to like 275 since it does transmission pressure too. But I was happy with it, so I put the new switch in and took it to work twice now with no issues.
I've only had my gp's break and not be drivable 3 times in 6 years, sucks when it happens but it was never anything complicated to fix myself. This was the third though. So with that average, the next break down should be in 2021.
This weekend I should do my last flush and fill with antifreeze. Thinking of using Prestone's universal like always. But I like keeping things original, and am tempted to use Prestone's dexcool equivalent, hoping it is improved and won't sludge. But I'll pass on that. The cleaner+water turning brown and smelling like dex sludge will reassure that decision.
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Mmmm the GXP is falling apart.
A/C has stopped thanks to a bad ambient air temp sensor. The LH hood scoop broke off on the highway. Still have it thankfully. Driver rocker molding clips are broken. Taillight clearcoat & tint is peeling. Ugh and that's just the tip of the probs. Easy fixes all so good lucky everybody! Haha
^^^replaced that ambient air temp sensor. Didn't help. Still reading wrong temp so no A/C for me. Fml.
Oooh my pop pop came to me this morning and made an offer. Replace the heater core in his Explorer and he'll repaint the bumpers and rocker panels on the GXP. That's a fair deal.
Man, I'd have him paint the entire car for a job like that. Sounds like he made out easy, lol.
Got an expensive taxi ride 5 minutes from my house.
https://i.ibb.co/wpkDKKx/IMG-20190810-194525.jpg
Brake hard line blew out at grocery store parking lot. Thankfully it happened as soon as I started the car. So I'll be replacing all the lines. Think I'll grab a set of SS braided as a motivation to do a job I'm not crazy about.
Tracked down the source of a growing coolant leak.. turns out it was the water pump.
Was hard to tell because coolant would hit the belt and tossed it everywhere.
The top weep hole had coolant comming out of it (shown in 2nd photohttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...c72974fe24.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...1b0e1e3fb2.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...50e1394342.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...3513c608a9.jpg
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You got real lucky there. I had my rear line let go during a huge panic stop (it was either stop or smash the women hard in the pass. side door). It slowed me down just long enough that I could swerve and hit the shoulder. My heart sank when I was standing on the pedal and felt it go to the floor. Figured I was just about to watch all my hard work get torn up due to some dumb****.
If one is going, check them ALL! Not long after I fixed the rear line I had the front pass. side line blow out where it sits against the firewall insulation and rusts. Luckily that happened as I was moving cars around in the driveway. And no, that line no longer resides in that stupid clip.
Grab some Ni-Copp line, a tubing flare kit and get to work. I was able to re-use my factory fittings too. Those lines will outlast the car at this point.
Yeah man, you know the fear all to well. I had my daughter with me. I don't want to think about what could have happened. Like you I also replaced the RF line a couple months ago, same spot. I have all the nicopp to do the rest. All 4 done, just need to do the lines from rear subframe and back. I did order the ss braided for the corners. Had a fuel line leak when I took them out of those craptastic brackets, so I'm replacing the fuel line with braided nylon. If you didn't reuse the plastic brackets, how did you secure the lines?
The brake lines are just bent away from the body there, no clip. I haven't touched the fuel line (as I know it will probably leak, lol..). In fact it'll probably twist off at the filter the next time I change it. I'm gonna get a fuel line kit for it BEFORE I mess with that so there are no "oh crap" moments. Not sure what I'll do to secure the fuel line but I'm sure I'll come up with something. I just want to make sure it has a way to drain away moisture from those lines.
Today I replaced the GTP's engine mount with the one I removed 75-80K ago.
Pic link:
https://1.bp.blogspot.com/--d9ZP0liU...818_160112.jpg
Got the Explorer put together and running. El yay! No coolant leaks, the engine runs great now and, cold A/C. Found one sensor on the steering column with nothing plugged into it. Sh*t. Might be the air bag sensor since that light is now on. Decided to put that mystery off for now and power wash the gross nasty carpet since the seats were already out it wasn't much effort to remove. The power washer died in me minutes in.
Put new front pads and rotors on the kids 2000 suburban. 90,000 miles was just a touch long. 187000 on truck.
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...04e3cb41ee.jpg
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Yesterday new pads on all 4 corners of the 2012 suburban. 60,000 miles
Rotors were still great and caught them early enough.
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...4092b51ba5.jpg
Easiest pad replacement i have had in years. No caliper sliding bolt issues. Still free and easy sliding before redo.
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Had a P1404 code pop up yesterday. Cleaned out the EGR valve and the gas cap seal, checked to be sure the MAP wasn't broken/loose and cleared the code. Drove it all day today and so far no code so hopefully good to go. Needs an oil change and a wash. Hopefully get to that this weekend. Also going to try and figure out where the clunk is coming from in the front end. Think it may be a ball joint or tie rod.
Tried for the 3rd time to tint my windows. I'm now convinced that anyone who can successfully tint their own windows, who is not a professional, has the blood of the gods flowing through their veins. Passenger front I "only" got like 3 small wrinkles I couldn't get out. Pass rear made me want to stand up and walk backwards into traffic. Ripped them both off and now I'm trying hard to drink myself into the land of numbness
This is exactly why I paid to have my windows professionally tinted. I tinted a buddies car once and I swore I'd never do it again. Didn't have the wrinkles in it but some of the air bubbles pissed me off. I eventually worked them out with a needle and smoothing it but damn. Def. not my thing.
Got the car washed and in the garage just in time for it to rain. Hopefully tomorrow I can give it the oil change it still needs and work on figuring out where the clunk is coming from. Gonna pull both front tires off and push/pull/pry on everything and also check the motor/trans/dogbone mounts.
Been cleaning up the basement to make room to relocate my water heater. The old one has been leaking for a few weeks so now is the time to install the new one and free up the part of my basement I need for my pool table. Also gonna have a new breaker/wire run just for it since I'm pretty sure it's tied in with the clothes dryer (not my doing).
did you not have a heat gun? its a must have tool for tint installs. i did a brow, all 4 doors the back glass in the regal.