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Did an actual scan, maxing my injectors and leaning out. Going to get a FP rewire. Also bought a 3.25 but might not be a good idea to put it on lol hopefully fix the exhaust leak soon and get and wideband. http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/2016...70ebadbca1.jpg
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i suggest to pulley up. look at the kr there. or pull a degree or 2 of timing.
i like the ltft tho :th_thumb-up::th_thumb-up:
your maf is close to the end too. what pulley you got on now?
3.4
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The knock didn't overly concern me because it was at/close to shift.
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Russ; I've got a new zzp rewire I never used, and 42# injectors for sale :P pm me
and lq4 goodness.
I have 42.5s already
Ehh, I was going to go with a caspers.
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Well Poo on you :PQuote:
Originally Posted by Russosaur
Sowwwie jamessss
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Blown passenger headlight bulb tonight. One thing after another recently. Hopefully this will be it with the electrical issues. After the fuel level sensor, battery, and headlight, I never thought I'd say this, but I'm tired of wrenching lol.
Yesterday was new rim to replace the one that didn't match and a front end alignment. Today was new regulators for both rear windows and a new door panel for the driver side rear door.
200+ IAT temps??Quote:
Originally Posted by Russosaur
Is that even right with DHP?
dammit Wtf. Why is it so hard to read / record boost in HPT? Every thing I tried shows up retarded
I have no way to see what I'm making. Unless I look at the aeroforces or the dic , I'm just assuming it's "plenty o boost"
89 Camaro: rewired the cruise control harness, but when I go to activate or turn on cruise control my gauges fuse blows. I'm trying to get cruise control to work so I can diagnose why my speedometer doesn't work, and I'm hoping it's not a capacitor and/or resistor that loves to blow on these. Still have to change sensors until I fix my engine light as well, so that means I have to correct my vacuum lines, but at the same time I want to delete a/c and smog because they're taking up way too much room in my engine bay. I still have to change the driven gear in the trans and fix the kick down tv cable connector so it stops popping off. I like the whole downshifting thing that comes with WOT.
To-buy list:
Adjustable fuel pressure regulator, headers, egr valve, egr solenoid, shorter serpentine belt for a/c and smog delete, another pcv valve for extra ventilation, gray 44 tooth driven gear to match the speedo to the new 3.73 rear end, new tires for when they finally stop burning every time I tap the gas, fuel injectors (2), ignition coil, lots of electrical tape. MAT sensor, TPS sensor, and quite a few more.
And at some point I am literally going to have to rewire a large amount of what the previous owner did under the dash. Electrical gremlins are a-plenty, and I have a random stalling issue right now as well.
-Apex Aaron
stuff...
http://i61.photobucket.com/albums/h6...psxwynpthf.jpg
and things...
http://i61.photobucket.com/albums/h6...pssmvhqcpb.jpg
and it's waiting for temps to rise so paint can happen.
Yep its right, I have an IAT in the LIM. Its funny because dhp can only adjust up to like 170. But will read way higherQuote:
Originally Posted by Fivefingerdeathpunch
Filled the fat pig up and changed the oil. Was going to rotate tires while I had the jack out, but it started raining as I was filling the oil.
I need to do the same thing with the tapping and plugging, I'm keeping EGR though. I like my exhaust valves and MPG (ha), lol.Quote:
Originally Posted by WarStryker13
How does disabling egr hurt mpg's or valves? I'd be the other way. Don't plug the ports, you get less coolant flow lol.
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One step ahead of you. LolQuote:
Originally Posted by 02NavyBlue
http://i61.photobucket.com/albums/h6...pskv9z5pqy.jpg
Better fuel mileage with egr is hardy worth the dirty mess they make in your intake... LOL at thinking not having an egr is going to have any ill effect on your exhaust valves...