Thread: rotor touching ebrake, wheel hard to turn.

Originally Posted by raverockstar

So I'm talking about the knuckle.
One of the bolts was over screwed in. Which pressing the brake too tight on one side. Which is wrong cz the other bolt of the knuckle is screwed all the way but fine. But the bolt on the right side is over screwed. I opened it a little bit so it will be even.

im confused, post a pic of what your talking about. if you can.

Originally Posted by loopy

Wait - you have uneven wear on your pads? Did you push the caliper piston all the way in? If you have uneven wear on your pads, you probably have a bad caliper...especially if you are unable to recess the piston...

Yes and yes.

Originally Posted by Scottydoggs

im confused, post a pic of what your talking about. if you can.

I will when I get home.
Thank u.

I've got all of my brakes off on all 4 wheels of my 02 Grand Prix, I can post a picture of what they look like. I'll edit this once I get them uploaded.


From the top

From the bottom. That looks like an adjuster

You have two bolts that hold the bracket to the hub, and two bolts that bolt the caliper to the bracket. ALL FOUR OF THOSE BOLTS NEED TO BE TIGHT.

DO NOT, DO NOT, DO NOT leave them loose in the slightest. Even though you can't loosen them by hand, doesn't mean they wont work themselves loose in normal driving.

For the sake of safety I'll go out and take a picture of that

I will do it when it stops raining.

Here's a good picture of the bolts that must be tight:

FRONT BRAKES:
Bleeder Valve
13 N?m 115 lb in
Brake Hose Bolt
54 N?m 40 lb ft
Caliper Bolts
85 N?m 63 lb ft
Caliper Bracket Bolts
185 N?m 137 lb ft

REAR BRAKES:
Bleeder Valve
11 N?m 97 lb in
Brake Hose Bolt
44 N?m 32 lb ft
Caliper Bolts
43 N?m 32 lb ft
Caliper Bracket Bolts
125 N?m 92 lb ft

Not to mention that the bolts that hold the bracket to the knuckle are supposed to have loctite on them. Technically according to the FSM you are supposed to replace those bolts if you remove them. I personally find that ridiculous, especially considering the OEM bolts cost like $18 each.

I ended up buying new bolts from Fastenal and applying loctite.

Well I checked the rear caliper again. It's ok.

Everything is tight but one knuckle bolt that is almost all the way tight and doesn't turn by itself.

I think I'll let the pads wear out the faulty shape and ill tight it more later. Btw that's how it was before I bought the car. The old pad had a wear shape on one side more than the other, that side is the one with the knuckle bolt that was over tight.

I think It's better this way than rotor rubbing it and get hot and melt.

Raver your scaring everyone...if you get some time this week, and your car is still in one piece, you should really get some pics of your actual setup. Then use paint and put some marks on the photos do explain yourself better. As it stands I would think the general consensus would be that your reasoning is flat out wrong and quite dangerous.

Ok everything is ok now. Now I can screw it all the way and the wheel is free.

The pad got the shape.

Something is still wrong if you had to shape the pad. Something isn't sitting right. You are going to have more uneven pad wear.

I think he was confusing a little bit of resistance in the wheel moving after initially reinstalling the caliper, it will rub a little at first if the caliper slides on tight, but brake and release a few times and it should rub still, but not slow the wheel too much. You'll just hear a slight grinding noise when the wheel is off the ground and spinning. He was also confusing the bracket bolts and/or the caliper pin as adjusters. They are never a way to adjust anything. That little star wheel on the e-brake is the only adjustment on our 4-wheel disk brakes.