Printable View
Most tire shops/full service shops should have the tool. It's not a very complicated tool, but it just needs to do like several hundred different cars from every vehicle manufacture.
GM's are so easy to get into learn mode. Car in park, KOEO and hold "lock and unlock" on the factory key fob for 5-7 seconds and that'll set it off, horn beeps and the info center will light up. Just don't do it without the tool haha, because it will make everything a "--" for pressure and keep the light on.
Went to the Pick-a-part yesterday. Got a bracket and a pair of f-body calipers.
Bracket cleaned up and installed:
http://i491.photobucket.com/albums/r...psb524729d.jpg
Started cleaning the calipers:
http://i491.photobucket.com/albums/r...pse184c06b.jpg
Not sure if I want to paint them or leave them raw. I'm thinking I can get away with raw because I live in Tucson.
Don't need a special tool if it's anything like on my GP. Just the key fob, hold lock and unlock, let air out of tire til horn beeps, move to next, horn beeps, move to next until you get to the last and horn double beeps.Quote:
Originally Posted by Fivefingerdeathpunch
I always forget where to start, its either LF or LR.
Some early model chevy malibu's were like that, it was when they got the face lift over like the 02-06ish body style.
I've done it that way once or twice when they didnt have the fob, but it's never worked on an impala and everything else needs the fob now or it's in the info center's.
And it's the LF tire to start and ends at the LR. So you pretty much at right lol.
See, on my car I am 99.9% positive I start at LF and end at RF. The first time it was done we did it 3 times before we got it right because someone else said the same thing about going LF RF RR LR. We did it that way and they were all in the wrong position. Tried it again starting at RF RR LR LF and wrong position again. Finally went LF, LR, RR, RF and everything was in the right position.
Must be a ponitac thing haha.
Even GM and Ford tell you to start at LF and go around and end at LR on newer cars, fords will even tell you what tire is next in order on some vehicles.
My sister-in-laws G5 is the same way. Hers even has the turn signals come on at the corner you are supposed to do. My work truck Silverado does the same thing and it also had me go LF LR RR RF.
Whatever works I guess.
In the thousands of times I've done it's different lol, always been LF, RF, RR, LR. But our TPMS tool was like 1400 bucks and has a on screen car with arrows that it follows too.
I added a few more paper weights to my TV stand. I haven't cleaned them yet but I think go nicely w the S/C on the btm shelf. Lol;
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v6...ps13n3djpr.jpg
when it came time for tires I removed all the tpms sensors. Drove home unhooked the battery for a while and have been 2+ Yeats now without one warning.Quote:
Originally Posted by danielle15
Cleaned the TB on the LaCrap, checked all fluids, air pressure and cleaned the inside of it. Now it doesn't want to struggle to start when warm. I told my mom to tell the guy who quoted her 600 bucks for a fuel pump to kiss my ass.
Sent from the Milky Way
so i smoke tested two gas tanks on my friends truck, both caps dont leak. so its time to try the evap purge solenoid tomorrow. also it needs new o rings for the fuel rail.
my car, got the balancer looked at, looks ok. i put my alt bracket back on. still have a vibration. took belts off ran it, still a vibration but seems to be less.
maybe ill just drive it till it gives up on me.......
Changed the plugs on a 4.6 f150. That sucked dick. Then tuned a guys s1x build then i did brakes on a 06 dakota and one of the sliders snapped off in the caliper bracket so I'm fixing that tomorrow when the part comes in. Oh and I changed the oil in the wifes bonneville.
Finished the lim job on the impala. Also changed the upper intake w/ a dorman, fuel filter, plugs/wires, vc gaskets, coolant elbows, new wp and belt, and flushed the cooling system. Runs really good now.
When I did the fuel filter, I had just removed the bracket and fuel starts dumping. I was like oh I hope that's not the lines... Luckily it was just the fuel filter that had rusted out.
got a oil change for 55$ on my 01 gt with 55K, then put about 800 miles on it this weekend D:
You paid $55 for an oil change?
WTF?
$55? Jesus do it yourself $20 for oil and say $8 for a oil filter.
^ and thats on the expensive side, I pay 17 for oil an 7 for a filter.
Sent from the Milky Way
I was rounding it up guy..not giving exact numbers..c'mon you ought to know that.
I did a second ps pump replacement yesterday. Had a noise that I wasn't quite sure about. I'm sure it's not a bearing or bottom end, but fawk...it bugged me. Used the stethescope all around the bay.
Sooooo I did a coolant flush.
http://i20.photobucket.com/albums/b2...psc7tzpvwq.jpg
Swapped out the cracked flexplate. I keep telling GP guys like Kyle that you shouldn't try racing me. She's got power lol