Printable View
GTPower - What I don't understand is that when I'm not driving the car (In Park, or Neutral) I can rev the engine to 3500 rpm. But when it's in drive, it causes issues and can't get past 2100 rpm. If my exhaust was clogged causing these issues, wouldn't I be limited to around 2100 like I am when I'm driving? Just curious, not trying to argue at all.
The cat is restricting airflow. Under no load in park, it takes very little air to rev it that high. Once you put it in gear (under load) a lot more air is required to rev it that high.
oh okay, I didn't know that. I figured it used the same amount of air no matter what. Thanks for the info, I guess I'm going to try and unbolt the pipe temporarily to see what happens.
That last rev vid is promising. I expected to hear quite a clatter when the engine was coming down off the rev and it didn't. Now I'm thinking like GTP that maybe a piece of piston was rattling around and now clogged the exhaust. But it takes a lot to clog stuff up.
Removing 02 sensor is fast and easier than unbolting whole exhaust....just for a test...
ok, I can try that. But I will be taking off the pipe tomorrow anyways as my new one should be in. How do I remove the o2 sensor? socket?
It's 7/8 or 22mm (same thing), If you are going to reuse that sensor then you need a 02 sensor socket...like $6 at auto parts store. If not, just cut the 4 wire lead, and slip a regular deep socket on it. You can try wrenching on it, but it's tight back there. Squirt some penetrating oil on whatever you plan on taking apart later, so it has time to soak in and do it's job (PBBlaster,WD-40,CRC etc).
ok thanks for the tip. I should probably just go on and buy a new sensor.
With a sensor sized hole in your exhaust, it should give you a good idea if you have better acceleration. It's not gonna flow as freely as an unobstructed cat + exh., Don't drive for a long time...a lot of misdirected heat + exh flying around under your hood....But if it's a clogged cat, it will have more Giddy-up after...
Can I drive around town for a day like that you think?
I would not do that so you don't start something on fire.
Just like around the block...Not far at all. Certainly not a day! If you order a new 02 sensor, there's 2, upstream & downstream. The one behind the engine is upstream. Unplug the one you're running now, and look at the plug real good, take a picture even. Some websites will list multiples as an "exact fit". The difference is that the pins are in different arrangements. Most websites have multiple views of their sensors. They all look the same from the side. Find a straight on shot into the plug end, and zoom in. They're in a square, but some have a tab or two that won't mate up correctly. If you buy it in person at a store, bring the old one with you to match'em up.
Sounds like the valve spring broke and the valve hit the piston causing the valve to break off part of the shoulder and hit the ingniter tip and bent it.that's what happend to me friends 2005 Prix we pulled the head and sure enough that is what happened.got a salvage head $60 bucks, had both heads serviced,valves reground ,new seats, stem guides and seals $150 bucks, piston and cylinder wall no damage, upper gasket set, coolant and oil change air filter $180 bucks and 8 hrs total labor.runs as good as new.
Thanks for all of the input everyone. I will leave the o2 sensor alone for right now as my downpipe will arrive today. I'm hoping that fixes the no power issue, it was a nightmare getting home after work yesterday. Thankfully I was able to borrow a car today so I don't do any more damage. Tom, you're the second or third person to mention the valve spring so I'll see if I can go get that looked at. Could internal engine parts start breaking due to a clogged exhaust?
It is possible for a clogged cat to hurt the motor. I wound imagine that your damage has already been done though.
Holy crap having a really hard time breaking the bolts to put in the new downpipe. I sprayed some PB blaster on the tops of the bolts about five hours ago. I got the car jacked up now and I sprayed the crap out of the underside of those bolts and the threads. I think I might look for a longer socket wrenches well so I can get more torque against nut
run the engine to get the bolts hot, use long extensions and a breaker bar to break em free.
OK, thank you Scotty I will run the engine when I get back to it and I'll see if I can find a breaker bar
Best to go at it from top side, or under? Either way not much room, but I'm gonna figure it out.
I've removed the 2 manifold bolts from both top and bottom. I have a long box wrench that fits back there and I just give em a shove. Just be sure you're turning them the right way, lol.. Also be sure your hands aren't going to smash into anything if/when it breaks free. That can cause new vocabulary words to be used.