Have u tried a different gap on your sparkplugs? That seems like u pulled a ton of timing out to keep it down.
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Have u tried a different gap on your sparkplugs? That seems like u pulled a ton of timing out to keep it down.
I'd hate to have to jump back up a pulley size because I couldn't get the tune right with a smaller pulley, but I guess that's where the tuner pros gonna come in for me as this I gonna be my first 3800 build
Bigger pulley doesn't always equate to more HP... Smaller pulley no knock ++timing = ++HP
: )
lets just say, your not running a smaller pulley with out more flow mods, or a ic, or e85.
i got ported heads, 1.95 rockers, a fsic ported lim, and 42 lb injectors. it wont take much timing at 10 psi. but at 7 psi it will take 18 degrees wot.
your best to buy a tuner, canned tunes dont always work so well for a top swap. they need tweaking to get right, then you can play the boost vs timing game. no tuner,,,,you'll never know what its capable of.
I gotta buddy of mine who does it for a living who's going to tune my car as I modify it. Right now he's tuning a g8 so I'm pretty anxious to see what that and my car is capable of
before the ic, i had a 3.4 on there, it was getting 6ยบ kr at part throttle with stock l67 timing. so i put the stock pulley on and then ran one degree less wot timing and it had no kr at that point.
But your losing engine performance by having to go back to that stock pulley tho right?
Still more compression then a l67.
with an N/A bottom end, an otherwise stock L67 or L32 will make ~5 more HP than a bone stock s/c engine, but KR is a much bigger issue and a top/bottom swap needs to have flow mods in order to be safe.
I forgot he's got a L36 bottom end