Good call and thanks for this tip, it was faulty ave the reason for my leakQuote:
Originally Posted by b4black
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Good call and thanks for this tip, it was faulty ave the reason for my leakQuote:
Originally Posted by b4black
All great advise.
First try to tap it out hitting it with a hammer and punch, screwdriver, chisel, etc counter clockwise. Aka unscrewing it.
Plan B is dremel a slot and try to unscrew it.
Plan C punch a divot in the center and use left hand drill bits or traditional bits and an extractor.
Plan D hold a nut over the bolt and hit it with a quick tack weld in the center. Unscrew nut.
Plan E pay a shop and drink coffee while waiting. Lol
Plan E is usually the most expensive, unless you **** up plan A-D.Quote:
Originally Posted by brettstoner
Thanks for these, im glad this seems to be it. Ill let her leak til tmrw replacing a wonky wheel bearing (wasnt the right one) is enough for one day and draining it two days in a row doesnt feel rightQuote:
Originally Posted by brettstoner
A bit too deep and narrow to cut a line,I bought the punches hope they workQuote:
Originally Posted by markpa
Sometimes if it isn't a clean break and I need to drill it I will use my dremel to flatten the bolt face before I punch it. Keep the bit or extractor from walking.
Those are low torque bolts so you should be able to walk them out with a punch or screwdriver. Tap tap tap. If it's stubborn I would drop the pan, save the fluid, and give you a little more room to work.
By bolt face do you mean the bolt without the head? In my situation I completely twisted that off ( part that sockett attached to )i just have the screw part completely inside the trans bolt hole.Quote:
Originally Posted by brettstoner
Correct. The shaft of the bolt of what was left after the head sheared off. If it is very jagged it is hard to start a drill bit or punch because sometimes it will want to walk. If it is too rough I will hit it with a dremel of file to flatten it a little so I can punch it and drill it straight. Not often but it happens. Before you do that through (you might not even need to if you can punch a divot in the center) I would try to walk it out by hitting it counter-clockwise on the edge.
I think my best chance is guiding it counter clockwise with the punch or pick. I know it's loose just jagged and very slanted.
Jagged and slated will make it easier for the punch to back out the bolt.
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Still havent gotten around to this dam leak after finally figuring out my mystery noise, ill get this done this weekend. I wish there was a way i could replace the grommet w/out draining the trans
Quick question regarding the installation of the passenger side axle. I thought it was seated into the transmission correctly and when i put it down i noticed it started to leak from there. I took the tire off again and started to jiggle around the part that goes into trans. I was able to move it by hand and turn it to seat it to what i think is the right position( i did all this without loosening anything up). is it supposed to be that easy to move around the inner cv joint like that?
Heres my problem when i started the car im not getting any reaction when i go to revers and when i park it again it sounds like it takes a few seconds to respond and lock into park, is it not locked in right or did i loose too much oil? it wasnt even a quart. I dont remember having this problem at all when i reinstalled the other axles.
you need to push the axle in till it clicks, takes a bit of a push, you'll feel it click. then try to pull it back out to make sure its locked in. you can do this with everything bolted together, wheel off then push that f er in.
fluid can leak out the tranny when the axle is removed, its not supposed to leak axle in, if it does the seal is damaged.
ok any tips on how to get that dam thing in i got it right at the part where it gets thicker and for the life of me all the jamming and pushing aint doing it
so you can pull it out and spin the axle freely.
i just put it in you feel it meet the splines, then push it in till it stops, then pop it in with a little force and it clicks. then wont come out.
thats exactly my problem a lot of force isnt doing it. I took my other axle apart and keep mating it into the trans and comparing and its the same size, the old one fits but the new one doesnt it looks exactly the same. how frustrating..
how big of a deal would it be if i just switch that part that goes into trans with my new one? would it affect performance at all? i dont think it has any moving parts and i wouldnt want to undo that weird clamp holding the rubber can that be put back on?
dont think you want to open the boot. the old one was worn out so the cup on that side is likely bad.
try pushing it in till it stops, then pull it back out 1/2 inch,. then pop it in. kick it in if need be.
i can only assume you can feel the old one click in and hold right?
I did it, inspected it and it looked fine drove really smooth up to 80~90 but I'm still getting the same vibrations at the pedal and dash like a really fast plop plop plop noise. My tires are almost gone and I know I need an alignment perhaps a balance too? I hope it's this and not the cup I'm reusing. I highly doubt it. Also noticed the passenger side ball joint is busted, sighs...energizer bunny of spending.
If your tires are bald, your tires are going to be out of balance for sure.
A lot of people don't know this but it best to get tires balanced every 6k miles cause when tread wears down, the tire will get lighter and that means the balance will be off. The other thing with tire balancing people don't know about is if you don't balance tires at the proper intervals, the vibrations take toll on the tie rods and balljoints.
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