Starting New Build

[trewyn15]

Hey all, I have a few questions as I'm planning to start a build.

I would like to start an L67 build.

I would like to do a full heads up build.

This includes:

Gen V blower and LIM - What else do I need to get the Gen V to work on the series II?

Cam - XP Hot Cam? - This won't be daily driven but it will be driven on the street, any better cam options?

Heads - N/A heads better for compression? I would like ported heads of a sort - going for power here, will be a partially gutted car.

I also plan to run e85 and have a tuner here in Milwaukee (Clint, hopefully).

I'm sure there's plenty I'm forgetting, but I would like to do this without an intercooler, for now at least.

I'm going to search around the site, but I'm hoping you guys can possibly help with the couple of questions that I had listed.

Thanks in advance, I apologize, I didn't search as much as I should, but I will now.

[16MustangVet]

The NA blocks have higher compression from the piston being different not the heads. You will need to stick with the L67 heads as those have different injector position than the NA heads. Most people either A use the NA block for getting the compression up which is why a topswapped car will make more HP than a stock SC car. Or B use the L67 block and heads and have the heads milled a for a bump in compression. Not sure how much you can get from milling the heads. If you plan on using E85 then id just use the l67 heads and block. Xp cam is hard to argue with and doesn't need crazy headwork or springs or a double roller chain to make it all work.

[trewyn15]

Thanks for the quick response.

So, what I gather is that if I get an L67 I should be good.

Do some minor head work (they'll be coming off for a full cleaning anyways).

I'll be running e85, sounds like it needs higher rate springs, newer chain isn't a huge deal, may not be a horrible idea just for durability.

[16MustangVet]

Yes id use the L67 as long as nothing is wrong with it and iirc your going to want at least 105 # springs for the xp cam. I think people have got away with 90 # ones but id just use the 105s. I know there are LS springs you can use just don't remember what ones.

[tms8582]

I just did a similar build and if I was to do it all over again id go with the following... I'd go with a bigger cam like a stage 2 from intense, take the heads in and get them ported and machined for the cam specs and assembled with 130 lb springs, just port the Gen 3 and lim off the l67. Double roller timing chain with machined timing cover. 60 lb injectors, high flow fuel pump with wiring kit. North star throttle body, headers and 3" cat back. E85 tune. You will need a beefed up trans too.

[trewyn15]

Yes id use the L67 as long as nothing is wrong with it and iirc your going to want at least 105 # springs for the xp cam. I think people have got away with 90 # ones but id just use the 105s. I know there are LS springs you can use just don't remember what ones.

I have a guy locally that is willing to sell his L67, no supercharger, with wiring harness, PCM and engine stand for $400, 100k miles. Does this seem about right or one of those too good to be true type deals?

I just did a similar build and if I was to do it all over again id go with the following... I'd go with a bigger cam like a stage 2 from intense, take the heads in and get them ported and machined for the cam specs and assembled with 130 lb springs, just port the Gen 3 and lim off the l67. Double roller timing chain with machined timing cover. 60 lb injectors, high flow fuel pump with wiring kit. North star throttle body, headers and 3" cat back. E85 tune. You will need a beefed up trans too.

Thanks for the input! Any reason you wouldn't go with Gen V?

[16MustangVet]

400 for a L67 with 100K seems decent. The gen5 is fine to use if you already have it. Some don't see any point in using the Gen5 when you could just spin the Gen3 harder. With E85 you can get away with a smaller pulley for sure but most importantly just scan it and make sure its clean with no knock.

[tms8582]

I thought you had the Gen 3. A ported Gen 3 and a Gen 5 are about equal.

[trewyn15]

400 for a L67 with 100K seems decent. The gen5 is fine to use if you already have it. Some don't see any point in using the Gen5 when you could just spin the Gen3 harder. With E85 you can get away with a smaller pulley for sure but most importantly just scan it and make sure its clean with no knock.

That's what I heard, Gen V takes a larger pulley generally, but more power to be made with the Gen V in the end?

I thought you had the Gen 3. A ported Gen 3 and a Gen 5 are about equal.

I don't have anything yet lol looking for an engine and looking to get this started.

[trewyn15]

I think I'm going to go get this engine, anything I should look at when I go to check it out?

[16MustangVet]

compression check and obviously change the oil and filter. Make sure if you can see and visible leaks to fix them before they go in the car and the oil pan gasket is a whore to do inside the car so it might be a good piece of mind to change since its cake to do before it gets in the car just hang it off a cherry picker and throw a new one on iirc they don't cost much ive done them on all the engines swaps ive done and for the love of god use felpro gaskets lol! Just my 2 cents. Sure there are other things you could change but I wouldn't throw a ton of money at it when pretty much everything else is easy to do after its in the car as long as its a good replacement.

[trewyn15]

The only issue with this motor is it's out of the car and it's got the blower off.

Any way to check compression of a non-running engine?

[231FUN]

The only issue with this motor is it's out of the car and it's got the blower off.

Any way to check compression of a non-running engine?

Compression check is done while motor is not running,checking compression on a stand would be easier than checking it installed.

[trewyn15]

Anyone else think it would be better to just get an engine that I know is running for sure and running well?

I'm a bit iffy on buying an engine that's out and has had the supercharger and possibly the lim off it for some time

[trewyn15]

Also, looking at a supercharger that was in a fire. Pulley moves freely, but the casing is pretty burnt up.

Looking to grind it down, paint, etc..

Anyone see any issues with buying a supercharger that has been through a fire?

[REDCRAPGP]

Shouldn't be a issue if it spins freely

[trewyn15]

Someone was trying to tell me to worry about the coating and bearings and hone... coating probably wears off fairly quickly anyways?

[tms8582]

Someone was trying to tell me to worry about the coating and bearings and hone... coating probably wears off fairly quickly anyways?

I'd be more concerned about the melted plastic parts for the blower and missing on short block. Those parts may be expensive new and hard to find used.

[trewyn15]

I'll have to look into them, i'd only get the blower, not the motor. This is just the Gen V, i need to find a different L67 to build with.

Is there that much plastic on the blower to worry about?

[BillBoost37]

No, the only plastic on a Gen V is the vacuum manifold on top (same part as Gen 3, easy to buy) the boost actuator (same part as gen 3 and easy to buy) and then the evap soleniod, which is going to be easy to find. Add in the boost soleniod (also Gen 3 same).

Coupler is a coupler if it needs to be changed, meaning it's the same as the M62 and M90 Gen 3 and V.

BTW on the lower manifold you can open up the L67 one if you have one. It's literally about 1" of material to remove and done.