Thread: The Hum

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  1. #1 The Hum 
    GrandPrix Junkie spazzz's Avatar
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    Today for the first time I heard the groan from the left front when turning in a parking lot.

    I jacked up the front, both tires off the ground, and did the 6/12 and 9/3 wiggle test.
    I had play at 9/3 but none at 6/12. Passenger side was cool.

    I had my son look and he noticed the tie rod end move.

    I stuck my had back in and could feel the play between the knuckle and the tierod end...plus the boot was torn bad.

    So between these 2 ?? __________________________________________________ __________________________________________________ ____________________________________

    ACDelco 45A0707 Professional Outer Steering Tie Rod End...$33.00

    Moog ES3459 Tie Rod End...$31.00

    Moog has a castle nut, ACDelco uses a nylok.....I'm thinking Moog
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  2. #2 Re: The Hum 
    Turbo is the way to go. Fivefingerdeathpunch's Avatar
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    Either will work just fine.

    I normally buy napa parts and never have issues either.

    SMGPFC Member #1
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  3. #3 Re: The Hum 
    Killa Bee Scottydoggs's Avatar
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    i just got a pair of delco tie rod ends for 12 each i think from rock auto. they had the castle nut and a grease fitting on top.

    i got the alignment pretty damn close, but not perfect, time to hit the alignment shop once again......

    98 Buick Regal GS, F body brakes, Caddy STS wheels, tinted tails L36 bottom end, lightly ported heads, 1.95 roller rockers, headers, gen 5 N* 3.0 pulley, FSIC, 42 lb injectors, a BrandonHall rebuilt trans, DHP tuned and AEM water/Meth injection https://goo.gl/gpV5kW
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  4. #4 Re: The Hum 
    Killa Bee Scottydoggs's Avatar
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    if one side is bad, do the other. its life will end soon enough. this last pair lasted 5 years, only the driver side had play. but for 12 each, f it i did em both.

    98 Buick Regal GS, F body brakes, Caddy STS wheels, tinted tails L36 bottom end, lightly ported heads, 1.95 roller rockers, headers, gen 5 N* 3.0 pulley, FSIC, 42 lb injectors, a BrandonHall rebuilt trans, DHP tuned and AEM water/Meth injection https://goo.gl/gpV5kW
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  5. #5 Re: The Hum 
    GrandPrix Junkie idrivejunk's Avatar
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    The Moogs work for me.
    All Grand Prix, all the time. 69 Model J, 99 GT & GTP coupes. All junk, haha.
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  6. #6 Re: The Hum 
    GrandPrix Junkie spazzz's Avatar
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    Thanks guys.

    Yep I was going to do both.
    My car said 91 today. About 4 o'clock I went to the store and parked in the blazing lot.
    I noticed it when I was leaving, must be the heat making it rear its head.....That F****n, p.o.s. store Copps, finally did me a favor besides robbing me.


    Is it easy enough to get it back to position without throwing it cattywampus?

    I suppose an alignment would be on tap too......just to hear them say my back camber is off.
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  7. #7 Re: The Hum 
    Killa Bee Scottydoggs's Avatar
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    i break the lock nut freem then leave it up to the end of the tie rod, take tie rod off, leave the lock nut in place. install the new one to the lock nut.

    bolt it back in the knuckle grease it, then go for a ride around the block and see how the wheel is/ feels. then you turn the inner rod to make the wheel pull in out out.

    once it goes fairly straight lock down the lock nut, then do the same to the other side.

    98 Buick Regal GS, F body brakes, Caddy STS wheels, tinted tails L36 bottom end, lightly ported heads, 1.95 roller rockers, headers, gen 5 N* 3.0 pulley, FSIC, 42 lb injectors, a BrandonHall rebuilt trans, DHP tuned and AEM water/Meth injection https://goo.gl/gpV5kW
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  8. #8 Re: The Hum 
    Killa Bee Scottydoggs's Avatar
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    that rear camber issue, slot your rear strut top hole, tell them you slotted it so they can align it properly now.

    id just for the hell of it make sure your locking bolts on the rear lateral bars break free too. my shop was a bag of dicks. so i had to free them nuts up and slot my one strut.

    98 Buick Regal GS, F body brakes, Caddy STS wheels, tinted tails L36 bottom end, lightly ported heads, 1.95 roller rockers, headers, gen 5 N* 3.0 pulley, FSIC, 42 lb injectors, a BrandonHall rebuilt trans, DHP tuned and AEM water/Meth injection https://goo.gl/gpV5kW
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  9. #9 Re: The Hum 
    GrandPrix Junkie idrivejunk's Avatar
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    You could always slot those rear struts so you can say "The rear should have camber adjustment now, set it please."

    I don't do any freeway usage so not a'feared of putting on just one and just counting threads or measuring. Usually drive straight after, so tire wear is next in line as an indicator if I need an official alignment. If I do two, yep I want the alignment checked. Its amazing how much MPG a bad alignment can kill.
    All Grand Prix, all the time. 69 Model J, 99 GT & GTP coupes. All junk, haha.
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  10. #10 Re: The Hum 
    GrandPrix Junkie spazzz's Avatar
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    I put the Moogs ends in today and it was easier than taking the wheels off.
    Although I had to use the sawzall on the passenger it went smooth.

    But what the hell is it with these castle nuts spinning in further than the cotter pin hole. and no I didn't go ape$hit on them.
    Firm snug and they barely touch the pin.
    Is that ok or should I get a washer for each side?
    I could probably just leave them where they are and get a beefier cotter pin.

    Seems like this a problem with Moog outer tie rod ends, no matter what car.
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  11. #11 Re: The Hum 
    Killa Bee Scottydoggs's Avatar
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    the delco's i just got are close to the end of the castle nuts too, so were the duralast tie rod ends. seems thats how they make em.

    ive never had one back off ever, so id not worry about it.

    98 Buick Regal GS, F body brakes, Caddy STS wheels, tinted tails L36 bottom end, lightly ported heads, 1.95 roller rockers, headers, gen 5 N* 3.0 pulley, FSIC, 42 lb injectors, a BrandonHall rebuilt trans, DHP tuned and AEM water/Meth injection https://goo.gl/gpV5kW
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  12. #12 Re: The Hum 
    GrandPrix Junkie spazzz's Avatar
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    K...cool

    Thanks Scotty
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  13. #13 Re: The Hum 
    Donating Users bandook's Avatar
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    Same here with the cotter pin hole below the nut. And those Nylocks suck for removing. Tried to torch them off, melted the plastic out, but still froze solid. Had to cut them off.
    Top Swapped 01 Imp
    VS (very small?) cam, SD Headers, 2.8" pulley, 29°, ported everything, E85, AEM water/meth, Deka 60's, HPT tuned
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  14. #14 Re: The Hum 
    GrandPrix Junkie HighOctaneRacing's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by ScottyBDoggs View Post
    the delco's i just got are close to the end of the castle nuts too, so were the duralast tie rod ends. seems thats how they make em.

    ive never had one back off ever, so id not worry about it.
    Fvck the castle nuts. I just get the NAPA ones because they use a nylon locknut like OE and you don't need to waste time on cotter pins

    Sent from my LG G3
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