f body brake low pedal

[fbm]

I have read a few threads on the f body brake upgrade but I cannot find the thread that has the info to fix the low pedal / long pedal travel problem I have just installed the f body brakes and stainless lines does anyone know what thread it was on or what the fixes are I thought there was a few

[atj8]

did you bleed the brakes?

[timboku]

Did you put calipers on the right side, bleeder must be facing up, and did you bleed the brakes?

[fbm]

Ya all bleeder screws are up and bleed I actually found out that someone put the rears on the wrong side

[coolone]

I didn't experience the long travel, make sure they were bleed well. Also, a worthy upgrade at same time is SS lines. That'll firm up the feel as well.

[timboku]

Hmmm..I have fbodies and rear gxps and my pedal is high and tight, I have stock gtp hoses on front but I would think your ss would be better,..I've done at least 5 fbody upgrades and the pedal was always strong after install...not sure what else could be...yiu use fbody banjo bolt?

[fbm]

I cut the rotors a lot of material needed to be taken off and the pads are around 50% all around I am just buying a couple of weeks till all my parts are in so new Rotors and pads will help but it's still lower than previously I am going to power bleed the system to get clean fluid in but it does not feel like air is the problem more like the extra volume of fluid from the dual piston caliper

[sdavis11b]

Hmm, I have had the same problem with my 04 GTP. I have bled the brakes several times and still have the issue. Its not that bad and is not "un-safe" at all. You just get to know when the brakes bite. I have heard that the "Brake Re-Learn" Procedure from a GM Tech 2 will resolve this issue but have yet to pay the $45 to get it taken care of. Been like this for 3 years now.

Oh and i run SS Lines and Hawk Pads.

[fbm]

I have never heard of a brake relearn procedure on a 2001 gtp or any pontiac I do know of a abs bleeding procedure with a scan tool or tech 2 equivalent or the new vehicles like Cadillac that require a scan tool to release the calipers to install new pads is the abs bleeding procedure what your referring to

[timboku]

As long as you didn't run the fluid out of the abs module by running the master dry, yiu dont need to bleed the abs module.

[fbm]

No you don't usually need to on most vehicles plus a power bleeder would suck out any trapped air my problem is the travel on the pedal I have heard of changing the master cylinder or the brake pedal assembly I thought there was one other part that would restore my pedal hight to the stock settings but I can't remember where I read it or what vehicle to get the parts from

[idrivejunk]

Sometimes trapped air can be bled out if the car is jacked up high on one end. It was a must on SOME older, rear-drum designs but couldn't hurt in this case. You had to make the master cylinder level to the ground or never get all the air out of the system. Re-bleed at the wheels with one end or side raised and see what you get. Also, contrary to many nay-sayers, some vehicles have a valve that must be held open while bleeding. Its also possible that a bubble is trapped at one of the many underhood line connections. Gently crack those open under pressure and you might find it.

[fbm]

Maybe I could have described my problem better or more clearly

I have brakes they work fine. I don't have air in the lines the issue is the pedal travels about a 1" further than before and then it's hard and responsive better than before. from what I have read in the past it's a common problem with the f body brake upgrade and some have found a solution to fix it with the corvette calipers that have smaller piston but I don't want to go that route,or a larger boar master or the brake pedal assembly. what I am looking for is the vehicle they sourced the parts from and which one works best and is cost effective

[FordMan77]

I used 06+ impala calipers/rotors for my upgrade. Same dual piston caliper, but it's steel vs. the aluminum f-body. My pedal feels just fine running the stock Imp rotors and some Wagner thermo-quiet ceramic pads. Stops on a dime and with no more pedal travel than stock. And no, I don't have SS lines, just new rubber ones.

[fbm]

I just found some info f body calipers use the larger boar 2006 impala master cylinder and or gxp pedal

2006 impala brake swap does not have the problem because of the smaller caliper piston boar

[timboku]

Done tons of fbody swaps on GPS and regal never changed anything but the calipers with no issues using stock lines...no master cylinder upgrade or anything...I feel your issue is somewhere else either not enough meat on rotors or something.

[CrazyGuy03]

I mean if you're leading us into a discussion about brake booster/master cylinder swaps because the larger dual piston set up , then it's been discussed before I believe on the regal site.
ThAt was difference between the corvette calipers and the fbody- piston size.
The impalas have smaller pistons , hence why they are soo samn touchy/ grabby. The fbodys have more room to play before they bite

[sdavis11b]

I just re-did the f-bodies this morning. New rotors + HAWK Pads. Bled all 4 calipers as per the GM Instructions starting from the farthest to the closest. Now the pedal travels even further. I have done over 100 brake jobs on all sorts of vehicles both foreign and domestic. Never had this issue, except with MY vehicle lol.

I am at a loss for words forum!

There is clearly air in the line SOMEWHERE...

[Scottydoggs]

did you bleed the master? if the res went to low you sucked air into it.

[fbm]

I had the same issue but once my pads were bed in I got my pedal back I also was dealing with cut rotors and used pads the day after the install my girl took the car to her family's house for a week when she came back I took the car to work to install the impala master I noticed the pedal was high and firm give it some time and really unless you opened up the brake line or have a leak there is no reason to bleed