Driving with loose tie rod nuts?

**natethegreat** · 03-16-2015

Had to do some work on the front end and in the process thought it'd be easier to remove the tie rods from the knuckle. Well about halfway down the threaded part the tie rod just started to spin. Did this on both sides. Well, i've tried everything and can't get them to either come off, or get tightened up. I need to drive the car tomorrow, on the highway. I plan to get new tie rod ends and just cut the old nut off to change em out, or something like that.

On a side note, I tried to change out the front sway bar with a dorman bar i pulled off a prix in the scrap yard. Its thicker that the stock one, and can't seem to get it to fit. Would Speed Daddy Headers get in the way of the sway bar? It kept hitting the downpipe, while the stock one slid right in. Any thoughts?

**Fivefingerdeathpunch** · 03-16-2015

I wouldnt drive it.

Does the stud on the tie rod have allen key to help hold it?

Or use a pry bar to push the tie rod end down, force the cone shape to wedge itself into the knuckle. Air tools/electric impacts help alot.

**natethegreat** · 03-16-2015

If it did, it doesn't anymore. I tried the breaker bar trick and that didn't work. I put a c clamp on it to push it into the knuckle and that didn't work. Tried our impact and that didn't work, But its a tiny compressor with a ****ty air ratchet on it.

**Scottydoggs** · 03-16-2015

heat the piss out of the nut, spray it with some lube, try some more.

or a nut cracker can be used, or a sawsall, grinder what ever you got to work with.

**idrivejunk** · 03-16-2015

+1 on not driving it that way. You'd have loose knuckles next, who wants that? Cutoff wheel solves all lol

**Scottydoggs** · 03-16-2015

i bet a 2 jaw gear puller would push the tie rod into the knuckle good enough to get the nut off.

**stealthee** · 03-16-2015

+ 1,000,000 on not driving it that way. There are many tricks you can use to get the nuts loose. Google is your friend

https://www.google.com/search?safe=o....0.FsoyIVZxacc

**mars5l** · 03-16-2015

are you using an air ratchet or an impact gun?

**FordMan77** · 03-16-2015

Originally Posted by mars5l

are you using an air ratchet or an impact gun?

Pretty sure he's using an air ratchet- " its a tiny compressor with a ****ty air ratchet on it"

Might also try some PB Blaster on it and then use a wire brush to clean out the exposed threads before backing it off.

Usually if I can't get a tie-rod to set I just smack the top side of it closest to the knuckle with my 2lb hammer a few times and it sets enough to tighten back up, and that's using a standard ratchet. If I break out the impact then it zips it on/off with no issues as long as the threads are clean.

**stealthee** · 03-17-2015

Originally Posted by FordMan77

Pretty sure he's using an air ratchet- " its a tiny compressor with a ****ty air ratchet on it"

Might also try some PB Blaster on it and then use a wire brush to clean out the exposed threads before backing it off.

Usually if I can't get a tie-rod to set I just smack the top side of it closest to the knuckle with my 2lb hammer a few times and it sets enough to tighten back up, and that's using a standard ratchet. If I break out the impact then it zips it on/off with no issues as long as the threads are clean.

But he also said impact just before that in that exact same post..

Tried our impact and that didn't work

so that's why I bet mars was asking for clarification.

**Turbocharged400sbc** · 03-17-2015

the ONLY easy way to remove/change oem tie rod ends is to first use a cutoff wheel and cut off the nylock top of the nut and the stud to remove the rusty threads/nyloc portion that end up trapping the rust dust and permanently wedging them together.

once you remove the stud and the nylock portion of the nut you can take em off with a ratchet or an impact in 2 seconds.

if youve been spinning the rod ends inside the aluminum knuckles for long enough your new rod ends may wallow em out and require new spindles.

a nut splitter works quite well too but ive been using the cutoff and zip method for a long time now since they got rid of cotter pin secured oem parts for this new nylock stuff that ****s you after a couple years of rust

**Booba5185** · 03-17-2015

^^^that's a really good idea! Never thought about the knuckle getting wallowed out, but it's a very good point.

**bobc455** · 03-17-2015

BTW, there are four sizes of sway bars for our cars.

**BillBoost37** · 03-17-2015

and.. flip it over so the point aims down. Fit no problem then.

**natethegreat** · 03-17-2015

Thanks guys. Ended up just using grinder and cutoff the stud. It didnt really ream the spindle per say, i think they were too loose the whole time.

The swaybar is 34mm, and seems to have a bend thats not in the stock one. Perhaps ill just mess with it some more.

**penright** · 03-17-2015

Originally Posted by natethegreat

The swaybar is 34mm, and seems to have a bend thats not in the stock one. Perhaps ill just mess with it some more.

Not sure if this helps since you made the comment about the header, this was my experience installing a swaybar 'Getting it over the hump :-)'.
http://www.grandprixforums.net/threa...=1#post1256182

Just listen to Bill. :-)

**HighOctaneRacing** · 03-17-2015

If they are OE tie rods, they are nylon locknuts. You'll get them off real easy by applying heat. To pop them out of the knuckle, use a BFH or deadblow and hit the tapered part with the threads upward. Apply more heat if it becomes a hassle.