Thread: Slightly Hanging Rear Right Caliper

My passenger rear caliper is hanging a bit. I replaced the rear calipers three or four months ago, as that caliper was frozen and had burned through the pads in less then six months. Now I am not certain the caliper was the issue. I bled the brakes thoroughly, and stopping is great. The calipers are new, the brake lines are less then a year old, and the system has been flushed twice in less then a year. What could be the culprit? I am curious if it is no coincidence that this is occurring at the caliper farthest from the master cylinder...could the occur from having too much fluid in the reservoir?

Originally Posted by Reptile

When the caliper starts to hang up, it usually points to a bad brake line. They can fray inside and when you apply the brakes, the back pressure will cause a "flap" to block the line and keep pressure on the caliper. It may sound crazy since they are fairly new, but it can happen. Try putting the car up on a jack stand, and step on the brakes, release them, and open the bleeder screw a little bit. If fluid shoots out, then I think the hose could be the culprit.

Thats a nice little tid bit of troubleshooting info there, have never heard of that happening before.

Originally Posted by Reptile

When the caliper starts to hang up, it usually points to a bad brake line. They can fray inside and when you apply the brakes, the back pressure will cause a "flap" to block the line and keep pressure on the caliper. It may sound crazy since they are fairly new, but it can happen. Try putting the car up on a jack stand, and step on the brakes, release them, and open the bleeder screw a little bit. If fluid shoots out, then I think the hose could be the culprit.

I will have to give that a shot, thank you.

here is something that happened to me, more or less same situation, I found my problem to be the guide pins and the holes they slide in were all gunked up and almost froze completely, they woulnt allow the calipers to slide back to their usual static position.
after I cleaned the holy crap outta them inside and out they have worked much better.

Originally Posted by justwhisen

here is something that happened to me, more or less same situation, I found my problem to be the guide pins and the holes they slide in were all gunked up and almost froze completely, they woulnt allow the calipers to slide back to their usual static position.
after I cleaned the holy crap outta them inside and out they have worked much better.

This is my next approach.

I took a look at things last night. I pulled the wheel, then did a visual. I hopped in the car to press the brake pedal, so I could pop the bleeder like was suggested. I got back around to the caliper, and the brake line had squirted fluid several feet! All I can figure is the light, very light tug I gave to the SS brake line back there finished it off when I was checking to see if anything was loose. It made a bit of a mess, but luckily I still had the old rubber lines, so I was able to replace it. Unfortunately, the caliper is still hanging up. I can spin the wheel, just the pad contacts the rotors and it does not spin free like the other side.

I do not know how to feel about this brake line, either. It is less then a year old. I did tug on it a little, but it should be able to handle that just as well as it handles travel from the wheel. On the other hand, it most likely would have blown out sooner or later. Had the caliper not been acting up, I would not have finished it off, and the line may have failed somewhere a little less safe then my garage. It failed right near the fitting that goes to the brake tube, so it obviously fatigued around where the fitting was added to the line. It had plenty of slack, too.

Originally Posted by Reptile

So the line was bad? That's a shame, but like you said, it could have happened at a worse time.

It is also entirely possible that if the caliper got hot enough, it could have damaged it. I've seen it happen several times...of course it will ruin the pads and the rotor as well.

Yes, the line was going bad. I think getting in there and touching it finished it off. I doubt it was heat related. The pads hang a bit, but not excessively. They are wearing quickly though.

Well, more troubleshooting with no remedy yet. The brake line is not at fault, as it has been replaced. The guide pin/bolts are not at fault; the caliper still hung with both pins removed. I also did this with the master cylinder open, to be sure that it was not some strange issue with the reservoir being too full. So, all that leaves me is the hard lines on the system and the relatively new caliper...that was replaced because of what is probably the same hanging issue. Any more ideas?

I have seen the caliper pistons get hung up, and freeze in place. Almost always in the out position, and there is no going back in, so it just goes out and out, and does not release the pads from the rotor to allow it to spin freely. That's a stuck piston, and burned up pads.

I was going to suggest at first to replace or completely rebuild your caliper, but what do I know about brakes.

If you rebuild, then you will for sure want to hone the bore, and make sure everything is Very-Very clean inside, and to put the needed lube UNDER the dust boot but out side the piston cylinder seal. You also want to make sure the guide pins for the floating caliper are clean, and can "float" back and forth by your hands moving it. All calipers for our cars should do this very easily.

That's what I would do if it were my car. Start at the problem at hand, and work inwards to the car body.

~F~

Originally Posted by GR8racingfool

I have seen the caliper pistons get hung up, and freeze in place. Almost always in the out position, and there is no going back in, so it just goes out and out, and does not release the pads from the rotor to allow it to spin freely. That's a stuck piston, and burned up pads.

I was going to suggest at first to replace or completely rebuild your caliper, but what do I know about brakes.

If you rebuild, then you will for sure want to hone the bore, and make sure everything is Very-Very clean inside, and to put the needed lube UNDER the dust boot but out side the piston cylinder seal. You also want to make sure the guide pins for the floating caliper are clean, and can "float" back and forth by your hands moving it. All calipers for our cars should do this very easily.

That's what I would do if it were my car. Start at the problem at hand, and work inwards to the car body.

~F~

The caliper is not stuck, it goes back in a bit eventually. I would not waste my time rebuilding a brake caliper when they are so cheap to buy complete anymore. Caliper replacement is probably the next step, though, as the ones I bought a little while back have a lifetime warranty on them.

There ya go, get your moneys worth!

Figured if they were powder coated or what have you, where you wouldn't want to give them up that easy, rebuilding them would be the way to go. So if they are not all bling, or you don't have much time invested into them if you painted them, then ya, go for an exchange under warranty.

~F~