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08-19-2014
So sitting at a drive-thru, my peddle goes to the floor. Turns out I have a leak/crack in one of the lines coming out of the ABS box going down the back wall - really hard area to get to.
Can I simply make a plug to screw into the ABS box, so I can get the car slightly safer to my shop?
08-19-2014
NO.
cut out the rusted line and repair it, or replace the line all together.
08-19-2014
That's why I need to get it to the shop, to replace all the lines.Originally Posted by Scottydoggs
08-19-2014
you can do a quick fix with compression fittings. with a hack saw cut the bad line out, tip, cut the line in a area you can work in, it dont matter if your taking a extra foot of old line out.
sand the line before you cut it, cut it cut new line to fit, joint the new line with the compression fittings. bleed the brakes your done for under 20 bucks easy.
08-19-2014
both sides of my blown rear brake line.
08-19-2014
you would then cut the line way up where you can work on it, and on the other side under the car where it can also be worked on in the clear.
after cutting both sides remove that line, bend the new one to match its bends and legnth, slide it back in there and button it up, then bleed the brakes.
make sure the master stays full or you'll have to bleed that too.
08-20-2014
So long as it's a very temporary repair, compression fittings are fine. If I recall, a compression fitting brake line splice would fail a Maryland state vehicle inspection, and I believe there's good reason for that. A better repair is to double flare both sides of the cut line and use a flare union. The proper repair is to replace the bad line.
I don't have access to a parts catalog right now, but many later model GM cars use what's known as an "ISO" or a "bubble flare." It of course takes a special flaring tool to make such lines, although they can be purchased pre-flared the same way double flared pipes are available.
08-20-2014
ie used em in the past plenty, never had one come apart ever.
using a double flair tool is the way to go in the long run if you give a crap. NJ wont fail me for them, so no cares, nor do they even look real hard any more. if you pass a obd2 scan you get a pass sticker.
08-20-2014
I'm not trying to be an ass, but much of my mechanical experience is in airplanes, where compression fittings are forbidden in all cases. I personally believe that the brakes in an airplane are just as important as brakes in a car, so yes. I give a crap.
Will compression fittings work? Yes. Will the repair last? From a professional standpoint, it's not an acceptable repair. Duct tape will "fix" a lot of things but that doesn't mean I'll rely on it. I merely offer an opinion based on my experience and knowledge.
08-20-2014
i did agree with you lol its the way to do it right. theres many threads that cover the right way and the quick short cut way.
08-20-2014
All I do is flares and unions. If you have experience doing them, and have the right tools, its a no brainer to do it right. But brake lines can suck until you learn all the tricks, since I've done them a million times I almost enjoy doing them. I'm using nickel copper lines by the way, huge difference. Much easier to bend and flare
I say its your car, learn both ways and the pros and con's and make your own opinion. Flaring is easy enough for me to always use them. Back a year ago I kinda sucked at it but experience changes that.
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