Thread: '04 N/A GP suspected bad ball joint

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  1. #1 '04 N/A GP suspected bad ball joint 
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    So I have an '04 with 176k and a suspected bad ball joint, at least as far as I can tell on the passenger side. Would it just be better for me to swap out the whole arm, maybe even both sides with the mileage, as I'm guessing if one is bad the other might not be too far behind. Let me know what you think, thanks.
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  2. #2 Re: '04 N/A GP suspected bad ball joint 
    Moderator Russosaur's Avatar
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    Replace the whole LCA, I would do both as they are cheap. Can be had for 50ish each. Make sure to get an alignment after, also look into tie rod ends and sway bar end links and bushings in case they look bad while you are under the car.

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  3. #3 Re: '04 N/A GP suspected bad ball joint 
    Turbo is the way to go. REDCRAPGP's Avatar
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    Yea just swap the whole arm. You'll hate the effort you have to put into them just to replace the bushing on the existing one.
    Squirrels are my engine. I need a Ford Regal
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  4. #4 Re: '04 N/A GP suspected bad ball joint 
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    Quote Originally Posted by REDCOMPG View Post
    Yea just swap the whole arm. You'll hate the effort you have to put into them just to replace the bushing on the existing one.
    Unless the bolt seizes to the bushing then the job just got really fun.

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  5. #5 Re: '04 N/A GP suspected bad ball joint 
    Turbo is the way to go. REDCRAPGP's Avatar
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    Grinder + torch
    Squirrels are my engine. I need a Ford Regal
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  6. #6 Re: '04 N/A GP suspected bad ball joint 
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    Does anyone know the size of the nut/bolts and the ball joint nut size, that would help, thanks.
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  7. #7 Re: '04 N/A GP suspected bad ball joint 
    Killa Bee Scottydoggs's Avatar
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    pretty sure its a 18 mm for the ball joint, and the lca's iirc are 21 mm and a t 55 torx.

    98 Buick Regal GS, F body brakes, Caddy STS wheels, tinted tails L36 bottom end, lightly ported heads, 1.95 roller rockers, headers, gen 5 N* 3.0 pulley, FSIC, 42 lb injectors, a BrandonHall rebuilt trans, DHP tuned and AEM water/Meth injection https://goo.gl/gpV5kW
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  8. #8 Re: '04 N/A GP suspected bad ball joint 
    GTP Level Member indygrandprix's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Scottydoggs View Post
    pretty sure its a 18 mm for the ball joint, and the lca's iirc are 21 mm and a t 55 torx.
    You may want to go buy a cheap 18mm wrench w/ a box end that you can grind down so you can fit the box end in between the balljoint and cv axle. An open end wrench will strip the nut if the nut is really tight


    If you have access to a hydraulic press changing the ball joints out and not the whole arm isn't bad and saves yo a few bucks. But if you have to drill them out it can be a pain. I've done it twice. It's quite a royal PITA
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  9. #9 Re: '04 N/A GP suspected bad ball joint 
    Moderator Russosaur's Avatar
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    I used an open end wrench without problems, broke it free with closed end, off rest of the way with the open end. I only almost broke the castle nut because I had the wrench up too far on it. You really just wanna worry about not rounded out the torx bolt.

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  10. #10 Re: '04 N/A GP suspected bad ball joint 
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    What are the torque specifications to the ball joint and the mounting bolts on an '04 GP control arm if anyone can let me know, thanks.
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  11. #11 Re: '04 N/A GP suspected bad ball joint 
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    I just got them tight as I could

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  12. #12 Re: '04 N/A GP suspected bad ball joint 
    Killa Bee Scottydoggs's Avatar
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    tight works well.

    98 Buick Regal GS, F body brakes, Caddy STS wheels, tinted tails L36 bottom end, lightly ported heads, 1.95 roller rockers, headers, gen 5 N* 3.0 pulley, FSIC, 42 lb injectors, a BrandonHall rebuilt trans, DHP tuned and AEM water/Meth injection https://goo.gl/gpV5kW
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