Excellant write up! Maybe add to the How-To section and make it a sticky. Can anyone add what years have the screw in calipers on the rear and what direction you turn to screw in?
found this for ya:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rlMU8K36Hjo
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Excellant write up! Maybe add to the How-To section and make it a sticky. Can anyone add what years have the screw in calipers on the rear and what direction you turn to screw in?
found this for ya:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rlMU8K36Hjo
Last edited by Madness; 04-27-2014 at 08:44 AM.
Clockwise
I have a 2000,and the rears just push in with a clamp.Im pretty shure all 97 to 03 had tophat rotor parking brakes.
Alll done! That was easy... took me about 2 hours but only because I rotated the tires and cleaned the inner rim... they appear to be working.
When I used the tool, mentioned above I had to put it in the piston because I couldnt fit the brake pad. But it seemed ok.. saved myself $300.00.
Last edited by andremike; 04-27-2014 at 03:42 PM.
Stick with us kid you'll save a ton of money, then spend it all on mods
I dont know... I should learn how to bleed the brakes next.. this way i can change calipers..
if keep the car struts would be nice... I hear a sound coming from the front left of my car when I hit a bump...
Luckily it was easy... but what if I had a bad caliper.. not sure I know how to tell..
But I would like to try brakes on my nissan murano.. may need to buy that cube... just in case I need to rotate the piston
the clunks, jack the front wheel up and look for a blown out sway bar end link, or bar bushing.
this a blown out bar bushing.
a good end link.
check the sway bar end where the end links are for cracks or just broken off.
bleeding brakes is super easy. have a friend pump the brake pedal up and hold it down, you yell pump em, then hold em, then you crack the bleeder open till no more fluid comes out, you pal on the pedal pushed the pedal down and holds it there till you say pump em up again. so as soon as fluid stops coming out you shut the bleeder so it cant suck air back in.
or you can make a one man bleeder, i made one, it works f ing great. its nothing more then plastic bottle with 2 holes burned in the top, you put 2 inches of fluid in the bottle then push a clear plastic tube that fits the bleeder nipple through the cap and into the fluid at the bottom, then hook it to the bleeder nipple, open the bleeder, then pump the pedal slowly, this will flush all the fluid rather fast.
the tube in fluid keeps air from being sucked back into the caliper.
Been reading more... especially about changing brakes on my murano..
What is the shim on the back of the pad for. I read about antisqueel goo on the back of the pad.. whats that for?
I aslo read about a cover...
Do rotors really need to be replaced or can you just put new pads on?
What about cutting them?
you can take your old rotors and have them cut. or resurfaced. they turn them on a metal lathe and take some rotor off to make like new. only thing is they are now thinner and more pron to warp if your hard on them. if they are warped already, dont bother cutting them they will warp rather fast again.
any good parts store that cuts rotors will measure them to see if theres enough metal left to cut and run them safely too.
some pads have a metal shim, its supposed to keep the pad from squealing then theres brake pad antisqueal stuff that glues the pad back to the caliper piston so it cant drag or vibrate when the brakes are let off or when on them.
ive used it on older cars have not had a need to use it on any of my newer cars or trucks.
If it has the type that rotates in you will see the mechanism on the rear of the caliper you can tell by looking at the back of the caliper if it's plain with no mechanism then it just pushes in there will be the emergency brake mechanism on the rear of the caliper if it's the type that turns in.
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