Thread: Clunk...Clunk...Is driving me nuts!!!

I should be good with my pry bar..:->)

Does placement of rubber bushing on stabilizer bar matter?...did not pay attention to specific orientation.

Yes each one goes a certain way, the flat side goes up against the washer and the pointed side goes into the sway bar and LCA.

Sorry, I was referring to the thick rubber sitting on the sway bar held in place by the steel bracket

Originally Posted by 02NavyBlue

Yes each one goes a certain way, the flat side goes up against the washer and the pointed side goes into the sway bar and LCA.

Oh that's my fault, I need sleep lol. I don't think you can put them in wrong, either way is fine.

Thanks. I know each fits into slot and the repair manual did not specify a particular placement. All I know is that the protrusion on the rubber mount sits in an oblong groove and then clamped into place

Originally Posted by 02NavyBlue

Oh that's my fault, I need sleep lol. I don't think you can put them in wrong, either way is fine.

How tight does the castle nut on ball joint needs to be? Can't fit a torque wrench on it. It requires 40 foot lbs. do you just snug the nut hand tight?

good and tight always seems to work. line up the nut, pin it.

Tighten until it can't go anymore? And then plug it...

Originally Posted by Scottydoggs

good and tight always seems to work. line up the nut, pin it.

Yeah I could only get so much torque on a 8 inch wrench, just pulled one off and re-installed on a regal gs yesterday. Tightened it until I couldn't go any more with one hand and put the pin in.

Sounds like a plan. Thanks. Everything went back together well. Getting the front bushing on the lower control arm to line up was a pita...

Originally Posted by 02NavyBlue

Yeah I could only get so much torque on a 8 inch wrench, just pulled one off and re-installed on a regal gs yesterday. Tightened it until I couldn't go any more with one hand and put the pin in.

Good to hear, I'll be going through the same thing and more soon on mine. I did upper control arms on a charger recently and getting the bolt to go through the bushing and the frame was a pain too.

I found using the flat tip on a pry bar works well if you push on the metal sleeve. Line up bottom and push top in. Have someone tap bolt through as you push to align bushing. This is needed for the bushing closest to the radiator. The bushing to the rear is simple enough.

Originally Posted by 02NavyBlue

Good to hear, I'll be going through the same thing and more soon on mine. I did upper control arms on a charger recently and getting the bolt to go through the bushing and the frame was a pain too.

Sounds good. Clunking is gone right?

Will pin ball joint and install wheel tomorrow and let you know.

Originally Posted by 02NavyBlue

Sounds good. Clunking is gone right?

I just don't get it. After all that time, cost and effort spent repairing the front end, I am still hearing this clunk on the RHS. It seems to do it on hard stops but not as much when breaking slowly. It seems that this problem began after my struts were replaced. The sway bar is in perfect condition. There is no visible cracks or sign of wear.

How's your alignment? Also double check that both o your strut mounts are tightened the same amount. Its also plausible that they didn't get put together properly.

After a week or so go back an make sure all your bolts are tourqed on the control arms etc...

Alignment is good. I have not checked strut but it seems that I will have to look at it in more depth. I torqued the control arms and sub frame bolts at 85 foot pounds. They are tight

Originally Posted by 91parkave

How's your alignment? Also double check that both o your strut mounts are tightened the same amount. Its also plausible that they didn't get put together properly.

After a week or so go back an make sure all your bolts are tourqed on the control arms etc...

It could be?..Definitely going to look at it today.

Originally Posted by HighOctaneRacing

Strut mounts defective?