Thread: Lower Control Arm or just lower ball joint

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  1. #1 Lower Control Arm or just lower ball joint 
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    After fixing the sway bar end links, tie Rod ends, and wheel bearings I have a new item to fix. When my wife's 08 car goes over bumps at low speeds or you turn the wheels all the way you hear a clunk. It is getting louder. I am sure the lower ball joint is shot.

    I know from seeing videos changing out just the ball joint is a big pain in the butt because you have to drill out the rivets. Then there is not much room to get the bolts in with the axle in the way. Looking for parts I see that I can buy a lower control arm with the ball joint for about $80. The car has about 80K on it. Not sure if replacing the whole arm would be worth it because not sure if the bushing wear out fast. Would hate to replace the ball joints and 10-20K down the road be having to do the arm because of the bushings.

    Are the bolts for the lower control arm bad to get out? Know from working on my Subaru there is a bolt that has the nickname "Jesus Bolt" because you have to pry so much for it to come loose! LOL
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  2. #2 Re: Lower Control Arm or just lower ball joint 
    Killa Bee Scottydoggs's Avatar
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    the extra hassle dont seem worth it to just change the ball joint.

    you can get dorman arms for like 40 a side, (on line) rockauto, partsgeek and so on. moog lca's are grease able cost a bit more around 60 a side.

    the new lca has all new bushings, ball joint, and the arm is all new as well.

    98 Buick Regal GS, F body brakes, Caddy STS wheels, tinted tails L36 bottom end, lightly ported heads, 1.95 roller rockers, headers, gen 5 N* 3.0 pulley, FSIC, 42 lb injectors, a BrandonHall rebuilt trans, DHP tuned and AEM water/Meth injection https://goo.gl/gpV5kW
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  3. #3 Re: Lower Control Arm or just lower ball joint 
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    Just looking at more videos to get ball joint off the fastest way to remove the control arm any ways. Thinking I am going going to replace the full arm and call it a day. Not worry about the extra work of the drill out.
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  4. #4 Re: Lower Control Arm or just lower ball joint 
    Killa Bee Scottydoggs's Avatar
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    its a 3 bolt job really. not all that hard. theres a how to here with pic in the how to section.

    98 Buick Regal GS, F body brakes, Caddy STS wheels, tinted tails L36 bottom end, lightly ported heads, 1.95 roller rockers, headers, gen 5 N* 3.0 pulley, FSIC, 42 lb injectors, a BrandonHall rebuilt trans, DHP tuned and AEM water/Meth injection https://goo.gl/gpV5kW
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  5. #5 Re: Lower Control Arm or just lower ball joint 
    GTP Level Member indygrandprix's Avatar
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    if your lookin for the easy way then for sure get the whole LCA. Hardest part is popping the ball joint out of the spindle and thats not too bad.

    You need a t55 torx for the bolt that goes to the cradle. (I beleive its a t55 anyways)
    Quote Originally Posted by BillBoost37 View Post
    I went NA when a whore left -$300 in my bank account.
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  6. #6 Re: Lower Control Arm or just lower ball joint 
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    Heres the deal if you do LCA you also get all new rubber bushings, and I had both mine in in 30 minutes
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