Thread: Need Guidance: Wiring up new ABS/Trac Sensor Cable (vehicle side, not hub side)

This is a project that I have put off too long, but many months ago, my daughter put my 2006 Grand Prix GT into a ditch, the only real damage was that the ABS/Trac Control lights would come on and go off intermittently. Well, I figured out pretty quickly that it was a short right at the connector of the ABS/Trac Control cable coming from the vehicle and going to the wheel hub on the front driver's side. I just "let it go" for a long time because it was coming into summer, and who needs ABS/Traction Control anyway, right? Well, winter is now right around the corner, and I really want them back, so I bought an ACDELCO 10340317 equivalent part (Dorman 970047 to be exact) from Rock Auto.

It looks like this:
http://contentinfo.autozone.com/znet...0-047/image/4/

Anyway, has anyone ever replaced this before? In the pictures, the blue and yellow wires on the harness look backwards. Not sure what to make of that yet either.

I followed the wires on the car up from where they connect to the wheel hub, and up under the hood. About halfway up from the underside of the car, they join into a much larger group of wires. It doesn't look like the replacement part comes with enough wire to replace the whole thing, so I assume that I just splice it where ever the length puts it?

Oh, and before people say it is the wheel hub, that was already replaced and it was tested while it was in the shop, for a deer hit on the same side that happened about a month later, that it was the wiring harness that was at fault. The deer hit was all body and nothing underneath, so insurance wouldn't cover it (nor should they have really since I knew it was a prior condition).

So any insight, tips or tricks would be appreciated. I've got a few days before the part gets here, so I figured I would ask.

I used the exact same replacement part. I just went as far back as I could get and spliced it in then routed it around and zip tied it to other looms to keep it from getting caught on anything. It's pretty straight forward.

thanks for posting the part number. I was looking for that harness.

unless you have a special open barrel crimping tool, the metal crimps that come with the kit will be no use to you. I would used heat shrink butt connectors and put the black heat shrink that comes with the kit over the butt connectors. You could also solder it in.

that is the proper way to repair this. splicing in regular stranded wire into an abs harness is a temporary fix.

I have heat shrink butt connectors already, plus just regular heat shrink tubing of all sorts of styles and types. IF I can twist and turn my big arms and hands in there, I will try to solder it. I've gone a kick-butt soldering setup that would do it right, but working around all of the stuff under the hood would be that challenge. The crimp and shrink method is probably the easiest and *should* stay secure.


Oh, and glad that the part numbers worked out for you. I was (incorrectly) given PT374 as the part number back in February when I first was looking to fix this. Similar part, but completely wrong as I found out today... (I told you that I waited a long time to try to fix this.) Now I have to see if my local Advance Auto will take it back after so long.

I usually splice the new harness in just past when the control arm meets the sub-frame. Its easily accessible and the wiring harness doesn't move much as it mounted solid to the subframe at that point. All the movement and stress on the harness is at the control arm and knuckle.

For my car, I will take the time to wrap the wiring in electrical tape under the loom. Some new wiring harness from factory are completely cover by a bonded vinyl sheath.

Great tips. Thanks

So something isn't right...

As suspected, the replacement cable has the blue and yellow wires flipped. So tonight, I hooked the new cable up "backwards" as in the yellow on the new cable went to the blue and vice versa. The way I was looking at it, since the plug as a distinct "left" and "right", then I needed to keep that correct more than anything. Still has the ABS and TRAC lights on. So I go back and switch it so that the blue went to blue and the yellow went to yellow (even though this meant that the plug was "backwards" and still have the ABS and TRAC light.

I checked the 3 fuses under the hood related to ABS and they were all good. (Tested with a voltmeter.)

Not sure what to do next.

So silly question, do I need to drive the car to get the ABS and TRAC lights to go off? I never did. I just turned the key while the car was still jacked up and the tire was off.

Oh, I also cleaned the connector on the wheel bearing hub with electronics cleaner, scraped at it a little with a small screw driver, and uses a Q-Tip to wipe out any of the scrapings. Used dielectric grease too.

So then I removed the new cable, taped off the ends that were now cut, and put it back together. I need to try to get to bed at some point tonight and any more messing around would have put me out there for who knows how long.

Thanks for any other suggestions you might have.

Any tips?

shouldn't matter which way you wire it. older abs systems wheel speed sensors aren't powered. They generate their own a/c voltage signal. Since its a/c, you can wire it up either way.

I would check the resistance across the sensor. unplug the wiring to the wss at the wheel. measure the resistance across the pins. What cha got? With your meter on a/c volts and still connected to the wss pins. spin the wheel...you should see an a/c voltage of maybe 0.1...the faster the spin, the higher the voltage signal.