Thread: Rear Brake Replacement?

What are you driving? On the 97-03 you don't need that tool on the 04+ you do.

back brakes are the same as front, only smaller. if your 97-03 the e brake cable is not a issue. if you take the rotor off its a good time to adjust the e brake if its not holding, or if your changing the rotors, make sure the e brake is adjusted before you put it all back together.

04 up you need to twist the piston of the caliper back in, not clamp it. not sure if you need to deal with the brake cable on those years.

the cube thing doesn't work very good most of the time. I have the actual brake caliper tool.

in for how to adjust the ebrake

97-03 with the rotor off you will see a drum brake set up like older cars used to have for the rear brakes. inside the rotor is a brake drum.

now at the bottom of the shoes is a star wheel with the e brake off, you turn the wheel to open or close the shoes, open them up till you feel/hear them drag the drum then back it back it off 1/2 a turn, re test for dragging. when it spins freely its good to go. its a good idea for the final test to put two lug nuts on backward, snugged by hand to hold the rotor tight. cheap insurance to know for sure its clear.

just make sure thats clear, you want the shoes as close as possible to the drum but not touching.

they do sell a brake tool to do this from the out side of the brake backing shield, ( its a wide flat tool, like a screw driver really) there's a rubber plug in the hole to access the star wheel. truth is its a pain to do that way. if you got the rotors off nows the time to adjust them.

04, i have no idea lol

its not hard at all.

not sure what a equalizer nut is......if you mean the brake line banjo bolt on the caliper, not at all.

if your not changing the rotors its best to have your old rotors cut if they are still able to do so. they need to be "so" thick. aka resurfaced, most auto parts stores do this in house for around $12 a rotor, sometimes more or less, depends on where you go.

it will make your new pads last longer, and work better. especially if your old rotors have lots of grooves. if you look close you may even see small areas with cracks even if they are rather smooth looking/feeling.

Only thing to add on adjusting the ebrake on these is......IIRC there is no hole to adjust through.

Originally Posted by bonerjamz03

alright so if anyone cares I just got finished swapping the pads/rotors out and it went fairly smooth. Now I'm going to take it for a test drive and break em in.

As far as the e brake I just left it as is. I haven't had any issues with it so I figured I'd leave it.

did you see if it works still? i did the same thing and the new rotors had a slightly larger drum and i had no e brake at all. had to take it all back a apart.