Maybe I need to add some wording. I am curious as to the best handling performance. Not caring about appearance or ride quality. Looking for best slalom and skidpad set up.
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Maybe I need to add some wording. I am curious as to the best handling performance. Not caring about appearance or ride quality. Looking for best slalom and skidpad set up.
so you want to lower about an inch, inch and a half, with some pretty hefty spring rates (higher than what they are sold with out of the box) and the struts revavled to accept the higher spring rate. without the struts being valved correctly the stiffer springs will just be a nuisance.
big sway bars (bigger rear sway bar to promote rear rotation so the car doesn't plow as much) are a must.
end links, lower control arms, trailing arms, etc. (all the piddly easy stuff that does add up). strut tower braces are literally a waste of money, but you've got those already.
So lowering 1.25ish inches is the sweet spot between level lca and lower center of gravity?
that's really yet to be determined, i'd think.
you'd have to play around with heights to see what it does.
Lower is always better for handling, but that is keeping the suspension in the correct geometry. Lowering about an inch keeps the suspension in the sweet spot, after that you have to start changing some stuff around. This is for the optimum setup, lowering is still better for handling otherwise.
On other stuff what Bio said, but I do think that the STBs work, I noticed a difference with mine, but a small one. If you want to be really awesome start looking into frame bracing to stiffen up the chasis...then do a RWD conversion for even better handling lol
Autocross to Win (DGs Autocross Secrets) - Suspension
^ This was a great read. I plan on doing some measurements and punching them in to the roll center calculator to determine proper ride height.
That's some good info
Any other coil over riders are you guys all running 12' springs I've read some guys using 10's anybody personally using them?
I'm running 10s right now
500#
And I would like to stiffen it up a little more. I'm going with 400 in the back.
And this reminds me. Would it be alright for the rear threaded sleeve to just sit on the sway bar bracket instead of me having to figure some other mounting for the sway bar?
I've hear of a few guys doing it that way, so you should be fine.
So if we kept the rear sway brackets on n used 5 inch sleeves, would that call for a shorter spring? Say a 10 inch rather than a 12?
Anyone who super low have any problems tearing axle boots? This axle I just swapped in already has a torn boot, even with spacers about as far as I can go.
Yea, my driver's side tore a few months ago and now my passenger one is ripped and about done since the grease is gone. When I aired out fully and then came back up to ride height, I want to say the axles were probably stretched to their limits and I heard some popping. Not sure if it was the joint coming out and popping back into place or some sound related to the airbags.
Bahaha...I finally designed an actual coilover for our cars. Build will take place in the near future! Cant wait!
the only major design flaw's i see with coilovers for these cars, is that they are too damn long. We need struts that are 2'' shorter, and use a 2peice jam nut.. Not 1 with a set screw.
BlownBigBlock (who just sold a set of coils) Had the best DIY set I've seen period. Loved his Top mount setup, and the Strange Coil over kit for a mustang... I'd love to duplicate his setup, but the limiting factor is that they only max out so far... That's were my statement of the strut body's being 2'' smaller would come into play.
If coilover's were made to go WAY lower than they already do. You could count me in on buying a set, as long as their well thought out, and could possibly have a camber adjustable top plate.
I've got a couple of ideas I still want to try out to get a little more strut travel with my retrofits, I'll get ~1" more if it works. The best option is shorter struts period.