Replacing hubs, front LCA's and inner tie rods - Specialty tools?

**zguy** · 03-30-2012

I just finished replacing struts all the way around plus installed new tires. As it turns out I still have more work to do. One of my lower control arms in the front have a bad bushing plus both front hubs are bad. I also have play in one of my inner tie rods. I just got all the parts from Rock Auto. Damn, that place is great. I ordered yesterday using ground shipping and got them today.

Anyway, I am going to install everything this weekend. What specialty tools do I need? I don't mind renting any tools if it helps make my life easier.

Hubs
- Will this work?
Auto Zone Axle Flange Puller

Inner tie rod
- I am guessing I can remove the outer most boot clip with pliers and break the inner clamp off of the boot. During reassembly I can reuse the outer clip but use a zip tie on the inner part of the boot.
- For the inner tie rod can I use the following?
Autozone Inner Tie Rod Tool

Lower control arms
- What do I need to separate the ball joint? This?
Auto Zone Ball joint separator

I would appreciate any suggestions...

**Fivefingerdeathpunch** · 03-30-2012

for the hubs. Just remove the axles nut and smack the axle end with a rubber mallet, or thread the nut on 2 turns and hit it with your hammer, that will break it away from the hub and allow the hub to come out. Then remove the 3 hub bolts and it'll come right out. No need for a puller

And the ball joint can be popped out with a long pry bar.

**Pure2sin** · 03-30-2012

The inner tie rod tool is going to be the most useful, other than that you can just use basic tools for the most part.

**dsmuts** · 03-30-2012

On the tierod boots i used zipties to hold the inner one on. My ball joints just spun in the knuckle so i had to cut mine off.

**Scottydoggs** · 03-30-2012

when bill did my trans swap to get the ball joins off, he used like a 4 foot bar, laid it over the lca and slid it under the car, and then stood and bounced on it, i believe he smacked the side with a hammer but not sure.

iirc you need a t 55 or t 55 .5 and a 21 or 22 mm wrench to get the 2 bolts off to remove the whole lca.

**dsmuts** · 03-30-2012

t 55 and 21 mm wrench

**zguy** · 03-30-2012

Thanks for the replies. I'll make sure I have a t55 as well. Any idea what size the axle nut is? I have a 36mm but it has a little play in it. I wonder if it is a 35mm. If so I will have to run out and get one.

**zguy** · 03-30-2012

Oh I forgot to add...

I have a 1/2 impact gun. I know you do not want to use it when you put the new hubs in but is there any reason why I can't use it to remove the axle nut?

**Scottydoggs** · 03-30-2012

impact off is ok, you can use it to put the nut back on if you don't over do it.

**Fivefingerdeathpunch** · 03-30-2012

I think its a 35mm, some are 32.

Dont impact it on, Torque to 118 ft lbs.

**zguy** · 03-31-2012

I just realized something... I ordered Dorman control arms. I know it isn't Moog but I thought it was still a decent part. I started searching on the web about Dorman and the comments do not look that positive. Looking back though I do not think it was so smart as I put better quality parts on else where so far. KYB struts and mounts, Michelin MXV4 tires, Moog hubs, Moog inner and outer control arms, and Moog stabilizer links.

Anyway, I have to follow through with the repair since I have everything apart but was wondering what folks had to say about Dorman LCAs. Are they going to hold up?

**dsmuts** · 03-31-2012

I have dorman lca no complaints here

**Scottydoggs** · 03-31-2012

X2 on the dormans, they work well, (they are stock replacements) took all the noise out of my front end after i changed them. nice and tight now too.

and i got mine for 42 bucks a side, cant beat that much.

**zguy** · 03-31-2012

Cool. Thanks guys! I heading out to the garage to finish up. I started last night on the drivers side with disassembly. The hardest part of removing the hub was the damn 3 bolts. Even after breaking them free they were tough to turn and slow going. If I had my way I would love to have had a fresh set of bolts to put in. I hope they go in much better with the new hub.

Oh I forgot to add, removing my rotors were a pain in the azz as they were frozen to the hubs. I have about 25% life remaining in them along with the pads. I don't know why they were so difficult to remove this time around as I have done my brakes in the front a few times already. I originally tried pounding on the inside of the with a wood block and a big hammer but they would not budge. After 20 minutes I had to resort to hitting them straight on with the big azz hammer. I was hitting the edge of the rotor where the pads do not contact but either way I was hoping to avoid doing that. I have cheap china rotors in the front and I swear those things really rust. When it was all said in done there was a pile of rusted metal probably big enough to fill one or more coffee cups. I am not kidding either. I did notice that the edges of the inner pad are wearing unevenly. I wonder if that is related to the play in the hubs that I am replacing or if I have another problem with calipers themselves. My guess it is due to the bad bearings that I had.

Since I pretty much replaced everything in the front end it looks like I will need to do the brakes soon too. I am not sure if I will just get some cheap rotors again or if I will get some better rotors this time. I have also been wondering about upgrading to a bigger rotor such as a 12" setup. I don't know if that is cost effective or what the downsides would be if any. As soon as I finish replacing these parts today I will have to figure out which option I am going to do there. All I can say is that I replaced tons of crap on this car in the last year. Prior to that it have been bullet proof.

**dsmuts** · 03-31-2012

The 3 bolts come out hard because they have loctite on them from the factory. They will go in better than they came out.

**Pure2sin** · 03-31-2012

Originally Posted by dsmuts

On the tierod boots i used zipties to hold the inner one on. My ball joints just spun in the knuckle so i had to cut mine off.

x2 on that. Those clip rings they give you with the inner tie rods suck. I had them fall off like 3 times before I said screw it and zip tied them. Only thing better would be if you could find a different style clamp the was thin enough.

**zguy** · 04-02-2012

Guys,

I have everything done. Lower LCA's, both front hubs, new front rotors and brakes, outer tie rod end and stabilizer links replaced. I can't get the inner clamp on the driver's side inner control arm off. I can't believe I am stuck on that part after replacing everything else. I am spent at this point. I did not order a new boot and I am afraid to rip it. I am supposed to get the car aligned tomorrow morning too. I am stuck at this point unless I want to pony up the $200 the shop to replace one inner tie rod.

???

**dsmuts** · 04-02-2012

Cut the metal clamp off with sidecutters and rub some grease on the inside of the boot then slide it on and ziptie it.

**Scottydoggs** · 04-02-2012

dont they just have a crimped band on them? if so why not cut it with some snips or dykes.

**zguy** · 04-02-2012

Okay, so I was able to pry the clamp off with a screwdriver wedged up against the stabilizer bar. It is very tight on the drivers side. Assuming the tool I rented fits the inner tie rod end getting it off should be easy now. However... I noticed that there is a lot of fluid in the boot. Is that normal for the mileage and usage or should the rack be bone dry? Otherwise do I have another problem brewing with a bad seal on the rack itself?