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01-09-2012
I am about to starting looking for brake rotors for my car (2008 Base GP) and was wondering what other people were using. I am trying to stay around the $200 range for all 4 rotors.
I have found these and thought about these without there pads [FRONT+REAR] 4 ELINE DIAMOND SLOTTED PERFORMANCE BRAKE ROTORS +8 CERAMIC PADS | eBay
Any other ideas?
01-09-2012
Power slots 1997 Grand prix original owner l300,000 miles on car I am on my thirds set of rotors also used them on my probe GT no fade look great can't kill them and hawk ceramic pads
01-09-2012
i just picked up a set of drilled and slotted ones off ebay.. look great dont rust (zinc coated or some bs) i hear they are fine if your daily driving it
01-09-2012
thats what im using for 2 years. never had problem with these, and i beat my car.
01-09-2012
^^^ R1 Concepts all the way. I've been rocking the E-line for about 6 months now and no complaints especially for the price, but If I had the money I would go premium just because.
FYI R1 Concepts also has a ebay store with better deals if you want a full kit.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/PREMIUM-SERIES-PERFORMANCE-DRILLED-SLOTTED-Brake-Rotors-Ceramic-Pads-FRONT-/390379759514?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories &fits=Year%3A2008|Make%3APontiac|Model%3AGrand+Pri x&vxp=mtr&hash=item5ae472679a
Originally Posted by AmericanSoldier
01-09-2012
F body swap......fbody rotors end up being cheaper on most bargin sites anyhow
03-24-2012
Does anybody know anything about these pads? They seem a little too "competitively priced" for quality ceramics...
2001 PONTIAC GRAND PRIX Front Brake Pads - R1 Concepts Ceramics 301.06990
03-24-2012
Ever destroyed a set of pads?
03-24-2012
lol no...but I take it these will burst into flame at the first stop sign
03-24-2012
No probably not.
But if you beat the crap out of the brakes, expect a failure.
Even with the highest quality pads and rotors you can find, unless you go larger in terms of rotor or figure out some cooling ducts.
03-24-2012
Yea, I'd like to do a full upgrade to slotted and ceramics-but she's got 198K and I don't want to drop too much bank. I'm thinking about this little combo might work for the fronts:
2001 PONTIAC GRAND PRIX Front Brake Rotors - OEQ Blanks eoe.62057
2001 PONTIAC GRAND PRIX Front Brake Pads - Posi Quiet Ceramic 105.06990
03-27-2012
R1 concepts x3.... I have their drilled and slotted rotors. Like them very much. Also I am useing Performance Friction Carbon Metallic pads. Almost a year old now and don't have ANY noticeable wear.
03-27-2012
i just upgraded to F body calipers, ss brake lines and slotted rotors all around, @ 220,000 miles, why not? car has never stopped better.
if your gonna upgrade, mind as well UPGRADE. its a small price to pay for better brakes.
04-08-2012
Why is it that so many people look at 200k miles as "ready for assisted living" or worse? I've got 110k on my '01 and when it needs a built trans, motor or any other part, I'll do it. If I lived in the country, I'd buy a couple parts cars and park them out back. No matter how you price it, a quality motor once in 10 years is Way cheaper than payments and full coverage on a bland new "Whatever", Not to mention *gasp* the money pit of "Leasing"...I'd Much rather have a car I can work on, And the knowledge of which bolts I've turned, because I know that if I have to turn them again I can. I treat all fasteners (except some body/trim) the way they would be treated on a Race car or Aircraft; Depending upon the application, they get Anti-seize, Loctite, or even safety wire, and I put down the AirGun and pick up the Torque Wrench when appropriate. Even if Pontiac is "Dead", there's a lot of these cars still out there, and I think another 10 years should be entirely feasible.
04-08-2012
Oh yeah, about the pads- Pads sold in the U.S. are NOT subject to testing standards like ECE reg. 90 in Europe. This means you could start gluing cardboard or plywood to backing plates in your garage and sell them as Brake Pads. Fortunately ABEX, Bendix and Allied Signal supply the majority of the "raw" and finished friction material/pads/shoes sold in parts stores in the USA. In reality, product liability has ensured a minimum standard that emphasizes adequate coefficient of friction and a riveting/bonding process that doesn't fail. If you look at new pads you will (usually) see a pair of letters on the edge or back; like EE, FF, or GG/GF (further down the alphabet is better) - GG is pretty much the current "standard" pad you'll find on European cars. The first letter denotes Initial Friction, the second "Warm" friction, so look for FF at a minimum. Now if you hit all the parts stores you may even find pads that ARE NOT Rated-I wouldn't even buy those for my Lawnmower, no matter how cheap they are! What I've read, and found to work well, is to use "used" everyday pads when Tempering new rotors, and then swap to an Aggressive compound like Hawks' HP Plus...
04-09-2012
I agree with you, but there's a huge difference between a car with 110K and one with 200K- I've got a lot of faith in this motor- especially since I did the UIM and LIM gaskets like 20K ago. However, with this car as a daily driver in Michigan there is a lot of exposure to salt and the body/frame will rust. That being said- If the tranny blows up tomorrow, I'm more inclined to buy another GP for $5,000 with 100K on it, rather than spend $1200-$1500 on a tranny rebuild or swap.
04-09-2012
<I agree with you, but there's a huge difference between a car with 110K and one with 200K- I've got a lot of faith in this motor- especially since I did the UIM and LIM gaskets like 20K ago. However, with this car as a daily driver in Michigan there is a lot of exposure to salt and the body/frame will rust. That being said- If the tranny blows up tomorrow, I'm more inclined to buy another GP for $5,000 with 100K on it, rather than spend $1200-$1500 on a tranny rebuild or swap.>
I see your point with the rust thing-my car came from Nevada and if it ever does snow in jersey (not this year), it stays parked and I go "Road Warrior" in my '84 F350 "woods truck". If you think Jersey drivers are bad, you should see them when it snows! I have an extended hitch (6") & Pintle hook that is painted "Markout Orange", and it rarely pulls anything, but it did have a VW rabbit impaled on it once! -and my step bumper thanks it....
04-09-2012
i had a 03 gmc pick up, it also had a long hitch sticking out, i used to come back from shopping and find cars grills impaled on it. was hit, slow speed, a bunch of times as well.
the best one was one time while at a light (in Brooklyn)i was stuck with my ass in the cross walk, kids all bunched up crossing the street, when i feel and hear, someone hit the hitch, and i see the tail end of this kid going down hard! all his friends stood there and laughed at him, but let me tell you, i walked into it one time, after that you know its there, and it hurts like mad!
i towed my boat all summer but i also left it in year round because anyone who drives a newer GMC or Chevy truck knows you cant see the bumper in the mirror, (and i snow plowed) so i used it as a guard when backing up. better the hitch hitting a wall vs my bumper.
04-09-2012
Hey not to thread jack or anything but are rotors from the junkyard ok or should just get new ones? I also dont think i need slotted or drilled rotors do i?(mines 07 GP base)
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