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11-08-2010
I have 97 grandprix gtp S/C, I would like to replace control arm bushings...plz help to guide me how can i do that and how hard it could me! i just would like to save labour I already got the parts and tools, i worked on them before but just not on control arm bushings. Any help would be appreciated...thnx
Last edited by marwan; 12-19-2010 at 08:45 PM. Reason: DELETE
11-08-2010
The easy way:
Buy new control arms, unbolt the balljoint and two control arm bushing bolts, replace and enjoy the new parts.
The hard way:
Spend 1/2 to 3/4 of a new control arm price and buy the bushings. Take off the arms as described in the "easy way" and find a press. Fight, battle swear and bleed for hours. Leave car on jack stands for three days while new control arms are shipped in, bolt on new arms and get pissed at the extra expense for the bushings that you didn't use.
Not that I'm talking from experience or anything
tomsteve liked this post
11-08-2010
^what he's saying is send your parts back unless you've got LCAs complete with bushings/ball joint.
11-08-2010
Like said: replace entire control arm. I just ordered mine. Dormans, from rockauto.. Under $150 shipped for both.
11-08-2010
Should reduce torque steer.
and probably a good idea to replace your sway bar links with some moog ones while you're in there.
They're less than $10 for both sides anyways.
11-08-2010
I have done these many times. I actually just did the ones on my moms Buick Century over the weekend. BUY THE WHOLE CONTROL ARM. It is very worth it because you get new ball joints and new bushings and like Matt said above buy the sway bar links too because most of the time they will be rusted or you will strip the bolt and nut getting them back on. The tricks are:
-Take the sway bar end links off first
-You will need a Torx 55 for the front control arm bolt
-You will need a 21 box wrench or socket for the front and rear control arm bolts
-If the inner metal part of the bushing gets stuck to the control arm bolt either cut (Which is almost impossible) or burn the bushing off enough that you can get a vice grips on the inner metal part then spin the bolt loose.
-Before you tighten the control arm bolts the control arm must be a ride height or close. If you have the car on jack stands be careful and jack the control arm up to ride height by jacking it up under the ball joint.
11-08-2010
Thnx all and every 1 for a great suggestion and advice, I will certainly follow the procedures like all u guys said. Hopefully I will get it done, the only reason i do not want to buy the whole control bar is because i recently 2 months ago replaced, ball joints, sway bar links, stabilizer bar links and so on, therefore i just dont know if it is very usefull for me to buy the whole new control arm which comes with ball joints or whatever. I don't know what u guys prefer?
11-08-2010
^^ It's up to you, but I'd still buy the arms. Depends how much your time is worth really. Personally id still do arms, That way you don't have to worry about pressing in bushings.
11-08-2010
Honestly I have a set of Moog ball joints sitting here because of just that reason. But if you want to figure out how to press the in yourself or you can take it someplace and they will do if for cheap then I would do that.
11-09-2010
I just did LCA bushings, ball-joints, and swaybar links on my '97. Honestly the bushings are fairly easy in my opinion if you have access to an air hammer and a ball joint press (press in bushing). Soak in penetrant and use air hammer to curl the outside of the bushing's outer sleeve towards the middle and knock it out.. Ball joint rivets were a PITA. $150 is a pretty good price for new ones IMO.
11-09-2010
I had one side LCA come out easy, spent more time putting the new one in.
Other side I had to cut the LCA off from the bushing then cut the bushing away with a sawzall (milwakee electric FTW) and then pinch it with vice grips and back the bolt out.
PB Blaster is a good idea as well.
Somehow I did it all wrong and my alignment is fubar'd.
Awesome negative camber and toe out.
11-09-2010
I'm rebuilding the stock ones, friend of mine has the tools/press to do it. I bought a set of LCA's for the 98, don't like the greaseless balljoint and the fact my balljoint cups are already dry rotting..
Stock ones I'll know what I have... and will probably only have about $50 into them when they are done.
11-09-2010
my delco's have grease-able ball joints.
11-11-2010
Anything wrong with the MEVOTECH Lower Control Arms at Rock Outo? The Dorman ones are a bit more, but I don't need to spend any more on my '97 with 222K miles.
Please give me your input.
Thanks,
11-11-2010
get ones with greaseable ball joints.
11-11-2010
^^ cheapest with greasable ball joints would be moogs.
11-11-2010
My delco's were $90 a side with greaseable BJ's.
11-12-2010
If you don't want to struggle with getting the bushings off and on yourself i would go to a local machine shop. The shop did both of mine for $10 and i got them back the same day. Saved me a lot of frustration.
11-12-2010
If you can get them out...
On my drivers side i had to cut the LCA off from the bushing, then hack the bushing apart till it was just the inner sleeve then pinch it with vice grips and then back the bolt out.... All because it was seized in there.
11-16-2010
"Master-Pro" from O'reillys are greasable and much cheaper. I have no problem using them on something like this.Originally Posted by codyAK
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