Thread: Brake Rotors

Originally Posted by Bio248

..so youre saying its the drills and slots in the rotors, not the rotor diameter, beefy calipers, or the nice pads they run? hmm...

No, i'm not saying that. Don't misquote me or put words in my mouth. Like the 'ruskies', German engineers do not take a dump without a plan. there is a reason for the cross-drilling. If everything else is perfect and it didn't need the cross-drilled rotors, Porsche would not use them.
Neither am I saying you need them for everyday driving. Only that there is so much 'hearsay' out there that people buy into.
Why does Porsche use cross-drilled rotors? My answer is hearsay. Ask Porsche!
If they work for you, use them, if not, don't!
No matter what the subject, someone has a horror story. That is why you have a choice.

Originally Posted by TorqueAutoMotiv

these brake debates are fun to watch

also i vote blanks cause in the real world they are cheaper and a good set of pads

Hands down, if you are not a serious auto-crosser, that's the only thing you use your car to do, not even drive on the streets on the weekend, then yes, hands down, go for the best quality, not always cheaper, blank you can afford!

Cross drilling helps with cooling... but cooling isn't the issue with the brakes on our cars unless you're auto crossing....

So its a waste of money.

CHEAP ROTORS WARP.

simple as that.

As a GM tech you must realize that GM is having an issue with some of their rotors as of late right?

You are both right. You don't need to ride the brakes to warp crappy oem rotors. The rotors on my '98 Monte warped in less than 8,000 and the service writer tried to tell me that I didn't know how to drive a car with 4 wheel disc brakes. Then I whipped out my "Mr. Goodwrench" brake, etc certificates and they replaced the rotors.
After less than 5,000 miles, the rotors on my '99 Trans Am were warped and the service writer @ Pontiac replaced them @ no charge, adding that they knew there was a rotor problem and suggesting that, although they would keep replacing them under warranty, it might be a good idea to get some aftermarket rotors.
I think GM has that problem fixed.
Yes Matt, our rotors are thick enough and cool just fine for non-racing driving. That said, here in SE MO, I drive roads everyday that can best be described as 'roller coasters'! So, despite popular opinion, I am replacing the front, warped (at 50,0000 miles) rotors with r1concepts cross-drilled rotors and semi-metallic pads.

wasting your money but oh well, its your money to waste.

friends parents have an 09 saturn vue that has been through three sets of front rotors in the first six months they owned it.

all warped.

And the shape of the fins also affects cooling properties. Curved fins = better but more expensive.

unless its raining or you drive in the snow.

then narrower tires are better.

no ****.

But i was merely pointing out that wider tires are only good in the dry unless you have an increased mass.

Does anyone have a link to a picture describing what rotor warp means? My brakes are ****, I still have the stock 98 brakes with metallic pads and they suck so bad.

They are good for normal use but if I drive hard for a couple of miles (3 or 4 WOTs and hard braking) they quit on me right away. The other day I was late for work and I almost rear end some poor guy because of this.

I'm glad to hear that the pads do make a difference I was thinking just today of ordering some ceramic pads while I switch to the 12" set.

Basically its not flat anymore.

Those two things you mentioned should greatly improve your braking.

I guess one thing that hasn't been said should be said; when you get on the brakes hard enough and activate the ABS, it feels like warped rotors. You need to know the difference! I had Sam Strano, Jr. set up my '99 T/A's suspension and brakes. The brakes worked so much better than the stock setup that I was constantly getting into the ABS while I learned how little effort it took to actually stop the car! Fooled the heck out of my wife too. In fact, we got so used to the T/A that, at least, when I drove our '98 Chevy 1500 Z71, I'd almost wait too long before applying the brakes. BTW, I have never hit the ABS in the truck.

[QUOTE=Juanmiguel;395533]Does anyone have a link to a picture describing what rotor warp means? My brakes are ****, I still have the stock 98 brakes with metallic pads and they suck so bad.

Having specialized in brakes, both with GM and the aftermarket, I can tell you that, beyond just plain lousy stock rotors, the biggest cause of rotor warpage is the guy at the tire shop with the impact! Or, the guy who rotates your tires. I rotate my own and always take my torque wrench with me to the tire shop. If they will not let me torque my own lug nuts or let me watch the guy who is doing it with a torque wrench, I won't buy tires from them or let them repair a flat!
If the wheels are not properly* and evenly torqued, the rotors will warp! All the manufacturers and all the brake specialty shops that I worked with (Over 100 in So. Cal.) told the same story.
*To properly torque a wheel, you start out at 60 ftlbs and go around the lug nuts in a 5-point star pattern (Obviously, trucks have 6 or 8 lug nuts, you have to figure a pattern). Then go to 75 ftlbs, etc until you reach the manufacturer's torque spec.