Thread: suspension

ok so my next step on the GTP is suspension all the way around, prob gonna go with kyb gr2 struts with anti pogo washers or should i go the kyb agx route... with me having 20 in rims running 245/35 tires would i be able to drop it any? if so how low could i go? on another note... poly trans/motor mounts... basically everything else ZZP has to offer for suspension upgrades are they worth it?... i plan on a serious makeover with my tax return this year.

I have used the GR2's and plan on using them again on this GP. Have always had good results and KYB stands behind their product.

yea im definitely gonna go with KYB... id like to get some eibachs or SSC's if my rims will allow..

I would recommend you get the AGX's if you are going to lower the car. How low do you want to go? If anything you will need to roll the rear fenders depending on the offset of the wheel. The GMPP sway bars and strut bars are a nice upgrade as well. The GMPP trailing arms have been discontinued. BMR and UMI have trailing arms avaiable for our cars. I read about a member that picked up a set of UMI trailing arms on ebay for a good price. Don't forget new strut mounts. Look into Vinnie's spacers if you go lower than a inch so you do not get the common vibration that plagues the w-body platform when lowering more than an 1".

i dont really wanna roll the fenders, maybe a one inch drop...i have GMPP front and rear sway bars and strut bars, ... got the strut mounts figured into the equasion. question is, is ZZPs stuff worth it or should i shop around? heres what i had in mind
poly engine/trans mount
engine/trans mount spacers
poly dogbone bushings
zzp control arm bushings
poly motor mount
zzp billet dogbones
anti pogos
tie rods
sway bar bushing kit
ball joints
more than likely the kyb AGX's

lol yall are gonna make me do a poll on this i want the best, nothing less. i plan on keeping my GTP til i die.

You can get the AGX's cheaper on performance peddler. Just type in "clubgp" to get the discount. Just get the pogo washers from ZZP. Vogtlands offer the most minimal drop. Just under an inch. Its the same stance as the GMPP lowering kit.

you want vogtland springs if you just want a slight drop. any lower and youre probably going to have to roll the fenders (which isnt that hard, youre just scared).

vogtland will match up with GR2s pretty nicely, but if you want to ability to adjust then you want AGX.

u got me... its just something ive never done... whats involved in rollin the fenders?

you need a heat gun (to heat up the fender lips and the paint so the paint doesnt crack and it bends more fluid), a rubber mallet (to actually hit the fender lip with), and about two hours max.

heat up the fender lip (this is done best with the wheels off so you can sit nearly inside the wheel well) so that its hot to the touch. you wont screw up the paint getting it hot, the sun does it all the time. start by hitting the fender softly and gradually getting harder until you can tell how hard you need to actually hit it to get it to go where you want. its surprisingly takes a good whack at it to do much. work your way back and forth on the fender basically doing the entire lip at once so that it doesnt crease or do anything funny. KEEP THE PAINT HOT. do this until the once 'L' shaped lip is more of a 'V'. youll see what im talking about when you look at it. this is what you would call fender rolling.

NOW, if you go really big and or low offset you may have problems with rubbing even with your fenders rolled. that is where you could maybe get a new set of wheels or try one more thing: pulling the fenders. when you PULL the fenders you literally pull them out farther and basically bend them out more to get more clearance. pulling the fenders is MUCH harder to make look clean as its super easy to put creases in the fenders. also, if you pull the front fenders too much you get a noticeable gap between the fender and the door, which is not a good look.

any more questions, ace? please hit the tanks button.

Originally Posted by Bio248

you need a heat gun (to heat up the fender lips and the paint so the paint doesnt crack and it bends more fluid), a rubber mallet (to actually hit the fender lip with), and about two hours max.

heat up the fender lip (this is done best with the wheels off so you can sit nearly inside the wheel well) so that its hot to the touch. you wont screw up the paint getting it hot, the sun does it all the time. start by hitting the fender softly and gradually getting harder until you can tell how hard you need to actually hit it to get it to go where you want. its surprisingly takes a good whack at it to do much. work your way back and forth on the fender basically doing the entire lip at once so that it doesnt crease or do anything funny. KEEP THE PAINT HOT. do this until the once 'L' shaped lip is more of a 'V'. youll see what im talking about when you look at it. this is what you would call fender rolling.

NOW, if you go really big and or low offset you may have problems with rubbing even with your fenders rolled. that is where you could maybe get a new set of wheels or try one more thing: pulling the fenders. when you PULL the fenders you literally pull them out farther and basically bend them out more to get more clearance. pulling the fenders is MUCH harder to make look clean as its super easy to put creases in the fenders. also, if you pull the front fenders too much you get a noticeable gap between the fender and the door, which is not a good look.

any more questions, ace? please hit the tanks button.

well... getting new wheels is TOTALLY out of the question... seeing as how i havent even recieved the 20's i ordered yet... and of course u get the thanks button... and has anyone told u how awesome u are today?

someone should copy and paste that post and put it as a sticky for fender rolling. actually, i should start a wheels thread to get stickied....riiiight..