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12-07-2009
Our 2001 has both of these lights on and the ABS does not work right now. We had it scanned and it said that the front drivers side sensor may be bad. Does the entire ABS system shut down if one of these goes out?Do any of you have pics of the assembly at this wheel? Is the repair easy?
Thanks
12-07-2009
Yes, your entire ABS and traction control will not work and the lights will remain lit until the problem is fixed. You need to buy another hub assembly and replace it. The process is fairly easy and has been detailed before on this forum.Originally Posted by nanuke
12-08-2009
I have the same problem I just pulled the codes and got co244 and co550 (Bad module). Guys don't buy from the dealer you will pay way too much if you need to replace your abs module(check your wss first with a dvom on OHMs first to make sure) Just find one that someone is parting out. I just got one for 40 and it works fine but ther are pros and cons it may work for a day or the life of the car. If you can't find one used search google and find someone that knows how to fix them. I hear anywhere from 80 to 100 to send them out to be fixed. Good luck.
12-08-2009
Morad Parts Company sells them for 179 I believe. He tests them to make sure they work before he sends them out.
12-09-2009
well my light kept turning off
i just took off the wheel and played with the wires and it stopped
12-10-2009
i got the codes 35, 40, 45 FML
12-10-2009
I have the same problem, my mecanicien says that does nothing bad,but if i want to have my ABS and TC i have to replace the piece and it cost highfor this,but i dont need abs and tc so it will stay like this lol
12-11-2009
yeah i have the same issue....magnasteer always being engaged is annoying but i like the auto TC off haha maybe ill just pull the abs light bulb....ghettoness
12-12-2009
Is there an easy way to determine if the hub is definately bad? I have the new hub and tried plugging it in before installing but the light stays on. I did ground the hub to the axle while trying this as well.
12-13-2009
Sometimes the wires after the sensor connector become brittle and can cause the light. I've done like a million a half of those wheel bearings
12-13-2009
If the light comes on but no noticable noise and no free play and if the wires are good, when you take out the hub assembly, you may notice it will come out in two pieces its a real common problem.I have the same problem, my mecanicien says that does nothing bad,but if i want to have my ABS and TC i have to replace the piece and it cost high
12-14-2009
I went ahead and replaced the hub(old one seemed in good shape) but light for ABS and Trac is still on. If the scanner throws a code for the front drivers side ABS should I continue with the wiring? Any tips on checking the wire?
Thanks
12-14-2009
Same issue with me.
just replaced a hub, light is off when car starts, but as soon as it moves, they come on.
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Side note... anyone know how to hookup the ABS on a 97 car that has a 98+ motor and pcm and harness?
12-14-2009
Should be plug and play. Also - did you have the code reset? IIRC, the ABS trouble codes are cycle-fed - meaning that they will continue until X number of "good" cycles of the key (PCM system check) are clear.
I could be wrong...it happens. But only on days that end in "Y".
-Swash
- sold
12-15-2009
pull on the wires
12-17-2009
12-31-2009
I had the same problem. I removed the left front wheel and all was ok. I removed the right front wheel and the sensor plug was dis-connected. I cleaned the contacts and plugged it back in and the lights went out as soon as I started the engine. Feels good to get lucky once in awhile.
12-31-2009
My ABS and TC lights used to come on and off randomly, and the ABS would kick in during ~90 degree turns at low speed, now the light just stays on constantly and ABS is non-existent, not exactly the best thing now that the snow is falling.
For those that have successfully corrected this problem, what type of price ranges am I looking at. Eg buy the parts and do the work myself, or hand it other to a garage? Thanks
12-31-2009
The most common issue I see with these symptoms requires the wheel bearing to be replaced. I have done this many times myself, but never had a garage do it.
To do it correctly, you need to scan the car and find out which wheel bearing is causing the problem. I borrowed a scanner, so that was free for me. But to go to a garage and have them scan for ABS codes shouldn't be more than $20. For me, I always get used OEM wheel bearings from Morad Parts Company. They run me like $50 shipped or something like that? A cheap brand new one runs about $80 plus shipping. A good Timkin brand new run like $140 locally.
Changing the wheel bearing isn't hard. Now I have it down to like 45 minutes start to finish. But if you have never done it before you are looking at 1.5-2hrs.
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