Thread: Stupid brakes are spungy

Originally Posted by Toasty

no, i dont. someone on one of the regional GP boards swapped it out, but only gave like 4 pictures. didnt give any more info :/


as far as a write up, i'd immagine it'd go something like this:


get associated parts to do the swap
procrastinate about actually doing work
start swap
loose blood, sweat, tears, and skin
remove old booster
rest and recuperate
install new booster
loose more blood, sweat, tears, and skin
test drive with big smile on face
clean up
colapse, vowing to never do that again

Whoa. I don't see anything about investing in a 6-pack and replenishing your fluids! Not to mention Taco Bell...

You guys crack me up. Okay, where's a good place to find one of these boosters.

first of all PULL the engine:


JOKING!!!!!!! GEESH!

Good places to find them:

junkyard, morad, Sinister Drag designs(on this board) I got mine for 50bucks....no rust.

as far as write up: I personally had my egr off when I did install...so sorry if it varies a bit):

1. take air intake off of vehicle(for ease of removal)

2. unhook motor mounts, and rock engine forward and put bolt in left wishbone to hold engine forward.(will give more room to manuever)

3. disconnect brake fluid sensor from master cylinder.

4.remove 2 15mm nuts holding brake master cyl on, and place Master cyl in place of where the Air intake used to be.(helps if cap is facing up)

5. un-bolt EGR mounting bracket

6. unbolt EGR tube from LIM

7. unbolt EGR tube from exhaust manifold(you can do it)

8. place EGR assembly someplace away from where you are working.

9. go under your dash with a flash light, and a needle nose...there is a safety clip that holds the pedal to the booster shaft. it comes down around the pin..you simply need to lift the flat part of the clip away from the pin..and push the clip off the pin. this will take some time..as the clip slides around the pin..and may take a few tries

10. once clip is removed, move booster shaft away from pedal.

11. while looking at the booster from the front of the vehicle..on left side (9 o' clock position)of booster there is a lock. simply push it toward the firewall WHILE twisting brake booster COUNTER clockwise. if it wont spin freely..use a long flat head or pry bar and put it between the bolts where the master cylinder used to be and use force to get it to turn.

12. once you feel the booster is fully disengaged...pull it out away from the firewall and try to get it out...., remember the booster shaft needs to come out of the firewall as well.

13. once old booster is out...compare it with the size of the impala. notice the size difference....OH YEAH!

14. installation is opposite of removal, only when attaching new booster...turn it clockwise until you hear it fully LOCK into position. if you go to the passenger side of the car and look behind the booster..you will see the lock.

dont forget to put the clip back on the pedal!

you do NOT remove any brake lines while doing this. siince the main brake lines are stainles steel and flexible..you can move the master cylinder out of the way.

do not take any brake lines off

I will take pics of my old booster tomorrow and upload them. big size difference.

So, how would you rate this over the OEM booster? Are the brakes that much better? This would seem like a very solid solution to those with the F-Body brakes. Couple that with SS Braided lines and you should be good to go.

Eagerly awaiting pics? Any idea how much weight savings there would be?

I rate it HIGHLY over oem booster.

weight savings..... .5lbs..maybe....

I am told brakes stop a lot better...havent given the GTP a shot yet.

Holy cow. Well thats got me convinced that I need to do this...

Super Toasty to the rescue with pics!

yeah, I go here in less than 8hrs..... only I cant search the internet yet.

lol, yeah. pay...I cant complain.....